Puglia without a car - Oct 2024
Nov 27th, 2024, 07:09 AM
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Puglia without a car - Oct 2024
Puglia Trip Report using public transportation – October 2024
We are a couple in our early 70’s…each with a wheeled carry-on and a backpack. In good physical shape so we are able to walk easily and climb stairs. We only used public transportation.
We booked en suite bedrooms that included breakfast. They ranged between $125 - $250 USD/night and that included the superior double upgrade (worth upgrading in our opinion). These do not have kitchen or living room facilities. We were very pleased with all the properties, and would highly recommend.
Do not plan on seeing the property managers. They tend to give a code to access the room. If you ask, they will WhatsApp restaurant suggestions.
Bus and train tickets were purchased direct at time of service. Omni or trainline are a couple options for a small service fee if you prefer a confirmation in advance.
The weather was ideal each day. Low 70s during the day Low 60s in the evening
Dress is quite casual in Puglia. Shorts were a common sight. Smart casual is the dressiest you may want for evening dinners.
Taxis were not very visible in Puglia as in other regions of Europe. They can be called by your hosts.
I won’t go into “what to do” or “eat” in each spot. Much has been written about that.
BARI – 3 nights
Flew into Bari – small airport and easy to navigate. Taxis were available. Taxi from the airport 25 Euros - 25 minutes Another option is a $60 USD pre-arranged private driver that meets you outside baggage claim. Drop off is at the end of the street because of a pedestrian street.
Hotel: Le Terrazze Suites booking.com - Great location in the middle of a walking street.
Upon arrival, it looks to be a business / apartment building. You will receive a code for entry. There is a small elevator. A typical Italian continental bkft is included at a nice restaurant next door to the property. 6 Euros per person is the budget. You may pay additional if you want more.
Day trip from Bari to Matera, Basilicata - one hour 5 min non stop by bus. $7 USD round trip pp. Go through the underground at the Bari train station. Bus stop address: Via Biuseppe Capruzzi Tobacco /deli shops sell bus tickets. Two companies go to Matera. Chose 7:30 AM bus to avoid crowds at the Sassi in Matera. Good decision. Upon arrival in Matera a couple taxis were waiting. 15 Euros for taxi to Sassi. Limited eating at that time in the morning, so bring a snack. Did walk back to bus stop - approximately 40 min from the top of the hill. Purchased a round trip ticket in Bari with a 7:10 PM departure from Matera. One day visit was perfect for us. YouTube has footage on the filming of the James Bond movie…. Live and Let Die.
Do wear comfortable shoes that don’t slip. Quite a hike is available over a suspension bridge and to the caves if you desire.
Locorotondo – 2 nights
Depart Bari - Bus to Locorotondo $5 USD 1 hr direct quite often – board bus early – standing room only for late comers (Tickets and bus stop same as above in Bari)
10 minute walk to hotel
Hotel: Domus San Giovanni – 2 nights Booking.com - train 15-20 min walk
(would have enjoyed 3 nights)
Breakfast was superior. Very nice spread served at a B & B down the street.
The first evening, we took the train (13 min walk from property) to Alberobello. Only a 10 min pleasant train ride. We wanted to see Alberobello sunset and lights without crowds. Good decision. Purchase tkts at train station vending machine (in English) $1.50 USD one way.
Day trip from Locorotondo to Alberobello and Martina Franca the following day.
Cruise ships have day excursions to Alberobello from Bari. I looked on whatsinport.com to see when ships would not be in Bari on the date we chose for Alberobello. That helped with the immense crowds in town. There still were quite a few tour groups there. Take the train, and get there as early as possible or go after 4:00 PM.
We were so happy to be staying in beautiful quiet Locorotondo instead of Alberobello. But I definitely recommend seeing this unique place.
After our morning Alberobello visit, we took the train to Martina Franca. $1.50 USD one way. 10 minute pleasant ride
Ask the train personable if there is a bus to old town immediately after the train arrives at the station. We missed it and walked up the hill to the old town. Liked Martina Franca a lot. Best meal (lunch) of our Puglia trip was at a small restaurant across the street from the Martina Franca Palace. Cibando Restaurant Piazza Roma 18 +39 080 798 4222 Indoor and outdoor seating
Rail from Martina Franca to Locorotondo $1.50 USD one way Approx 10 min ride.
Monopoli - 3 nights
Train from Locorotondo to Monopoli direct 1 hour $2 one way
Hotel: Suite 1212 - Rattazzi booking.com - train 15-20 min walk
The property has an elevator. There is a lovely rooftop terrace with very comfortable furniture for enjoying a local beverage.
We did meet darling Tiziana. She is very visible in the property and happy to help.
A typical Italian continental bkft is included at a local restaurant near the property. Quinta Essenza is the name. The owners (Victoria and Mimma) are delightful.. Mimma speaks excellent English. They make the best croissants! Plus, their Pizza for later in the day is delicious and easily serves two.
Wine - Lo sfirzio di Vino is across the street from Quinta Essenza Restaurant. A friendly owner wanted us to taste their different wines, then she filled a bottle of our favorite. It’s a unique experience watching the process. Extremely reasonable prices for the local wine.
Olive Oil – We had such tasty olive oil in a Locorotondo restaurant. I had to find it! The store is in Monopoli. It was located a couple blocks from our property. Scisci is the company name. The address is: via G. Antonelli, 79 70043. Sweet Anita explained the different olives used and let us taste several varieties. Scisci has a factory about 10 minutes outside the city. We wanted to see it, but it closed early on a Saturday. We did purchase the olive oil & checked our carry-on luggage. It arrived in one piece and has been wonderful at home too.
Taxi driver in Monopoli - +39 377350 6461 He was going to take us to the olive oil factory for 40 Euro round trip if it was open. There is a small shop at the factory.
Day trip to Polignano a Mare by rail. 5 minute ride $1.50 USD one way Very happy to be staying in Monopoli instead of Polignano a Mare. It was too commercial and touristy for our tastes. We are not cliff diving or lounging on rocks any more. Fun people watching on the rocks.
Lecce – 4 nights
Train from Monopoli to Lecce 1 hr 16 min direct
Hotel: Roof Barocco Suite B & B - booked thru bed-and-breakfast.IT
This is a beautiful property with lots of room including lovely terraces with plants and flowering pots. There are lots of stairs with railings to get to the suites. The property has two suites, each with a large terrace. It would also be ideal for two couples or a family. A small kitchen with a full refrigerator was in our suite.
The breakfast was delivered at our desired time outside our door each morning. It was delicious and huge. We were able to enjoy it for another meal during the day.
The location is fabulous.
Owners are delightful and live below the suites in a huge home, but give you total privacy.
It is helpful for the owners if you book direct. [email protected] or call or WhatsApp 0039-345-0021-403 roofbaroccosuite.it
We departed on the train in Lecce and went to Cortona in Tuscany.
We are a couple in our early 70’s…each with a wheeled carry-on and a backpack. In good physical shape so we are able to walk easily and climb stairs. We only used public transportation.
We booked en suite bedrooms that included breakfast. They ranged between $125 - $250 USD/night and that included the superior double upgrade (worth upgrading in our opinion). These do not have kitchen or living room facilities. We were very pleased with all the properties, and would highly recommend.
Do not plan on seeing the property managers. They tend to give a code to access the room. If you ask, they will WhatsApp restaurant suggestions.
Bus and train tickets were purchased direct at time of service. Omni or trainline are a couple options for a small service fee if you prefer a confirmation in advance.
The weather was ideal each day. Low 70s during the day Low 60s in the evening
Dress is quite casual in Puglia. Shorts were a common sight. Smart casual is the dressiest you may want for evening dinners.
Taxis were not very visible in Puglia as in other regions of Europe. They can be called by your hosts.
I won’t go into “what to do” or “eat” in each spot. Much has been written about that.
BARI – 3 nights
Flew into Bari – small airport and easy to navigate. Taxis were available. Taxi from the airport 25 Euros - 25 minutes Another option is a $60 USD pre-arranged private driver that meets you outside baggage claim. Drop off is at the end of the street because of a pedestrian street.
Hotel: Le Terrazze Suites booking.com - Great location in the middle of a walking street.
Upon arrival, it looks to be a business / apartment building. You will receive a code for entry. There is a small elevator. A typical Italian continental bkft is included at a nice restaurant next door to the property. 6 Euros per person is the budget. You may pay additional if you want more.
Day trip from Bari to Matera, Basilicata - one hour 5 min non stop by bus. $7 USD round trip pp. Go through the underground at the Bari train station. Bus stop address: Via Biuseppe Capruzzi Tobacco /deli shops sell bus tickets. Two companies go to Matera. Chose 7:30 AM bus to avoid crowds at the Sassi in Matera. Good decision. Upon arrival in Matera a couple taxis were waiting. 15 Euros for taxi to Sassi. Limited eating at that time in the morning, so bring a snack. Did walk back to bus stop - approximately 40 min from the top of the hill. Purchased a round trip ticket in Bari with a 7:10 PM departure from Matera. One day visit was perfect for us. YouTube has footage on the filming of the James Bond movie…. Live and Let Die.
Do wear comfortable shoes that don’t slip. Quite a hike is available over a suspension bridge and to the caves if you desire.
Locorotondo – 2 nights
Depart Bari - Bus to Locorotondo $5 USD 1 hr direct quite often – board bus early – standing room only for late comers (Tickets and bus stop same as above in Bari)
10 minute walk to hotel
Hotel: Domus San Giovanni – 2 nights Booking.com - train 15-20 min walk
(would have enjoyed 3 nights)
Breakfast was superior. Very nice spread served at a B & B down the street.
The first evening, we took the train (13 min walk from property) to Alberobello. Only a 10 min pleasant train ride. We wanted to see Alberobello sunset and lights without crowds. Good decision. Purchase tkts at train station vending machine (in English) $1.50 USD one way.
Day trip from Locorotondo to Alberobello and Martina Franca the following day.
Cruise ships have day excursions to Alberobello from Bari. I looked on whatsinport.com to see when ships would not be in Bari on the date we chose for Alberobello. That helped with the immense crowds in town. There still were quite a few tour groups there. Take the train, and get there as early as possible or go after 4:00 PM.
We were so happy to be staying in beautiful quiet Locorotondo instead of Alberobello. But I definitely recommend seeing this unique place.
After our morning Alberobello visit, we took the train to Martina Franca. $1.50 USD one way. 10 minute pleasant ride
Ask the train personable if there is a bus to old town immediately after the train arrives at the station. We missed it and walked up the hill to the old town. Liked Martina Franca a lot. Best meal (lunch) of our Puglia trip was at a small restaurant across the street from the Martina Franca Palace. Cibando Restaurant Piazza Roma 18 +39 080 798 4222 Indoor and outdoor seating
Rail from Martina Franca to Locorotondo $1.50 USD one way Approx 10 min ride.
Monopoli - 3 nights
Train from Locorotondo to Monopoli direct 1 hour $2 one way
Hotel: Suite 1212 - Rattazzi booking.com - train 15-20 min walk
The property has an elevator. There is a lovely rooftop terrace with very comfortable furniture for enjoying a local beverage.
We did meet darling Tiziana. She is very visible in the property and happy to help.
A typical Italian continental bkft is included at a local restaurant near the property. Quinta Essenza is the name. The owners (Victoria and Mimma) are delightful.. Mimma speaks excellent English. They make the best croissants! Plus, their Pizza for later in the day is delicious and easily serves two.
Wine - Lo sfirzio di Vino is across the street from Quinta Essenza Restaurant. A friendly owner wanted us to taste their different wines, then she filled a bottle of our favorite. It’s a unique experience watching the process. Extremely reasonable prices for the local wine.
Olive Oil – We had such tasty olive oil in a Locorotondo restaurant. I had to find it! The store is in Monopoli. It was located a couple blocks from our property. Scisci is the company name. The address is: via G. Antonelli, 79 70043. Sweet Anita explained the different olives used and let us taste several varieties. Scisci has a factory about 10 minutes outside the city. We wanted to see it, but it closed early on a Saturday. We did purchase the olive oil & checked our carry-on luggage. It arrived in one piece and has been wonderful at home too.
Taxi driver in Monopoli - +39 377350 6461 He was going to take us to the olive oil factory for 40 Euro round trip if it was open. There is a small shop at the factory.
Day trip to Polignano a Mare by rail. 5 minute ride $1.50 USD one way Very happy to be staying in Monopoli instead of Polignano a Mare. It was too commercial and touristy for our tastes. We are not cliff diving or lounging on rocks any more. Fun people watching on the rocks.
Lecce – 4 nights
Train from Monopoli to Lecce 1 hr 16 min direct
Hotel: Roof Barocco Suite B & B - booked thru bed-and-breakfast.IT
This is a beautiful property with lots of room including lovely terraces with plants and flowering pots. There are lots of stairs with railings to get to the suites. The property has two suites, each with a large terrace. It would also be ideal for two couples or a family. A small kitchen with a full refrigerator was in our suite.
The breakfast was delivered at our desired time outside our door each morning. It was delicious and huge. We were able to enjoy it for another meal during the day.
The location is fabulous.
Owners are delightful and live below the suites in a huge home, but give you total privacy.
It is helpful for the owners if you book direct. [email protected] or call or WhatsApp 0039-345-0021-403 roofbaroccosuite.it
We departed on the train in Lecce and went to Cortona in Tuscany.
Nov 29th, 2024, 11:06 AM
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To quote Joe Friday on "Dragnet": All we want are the facts, ma’am.” You delivered.!
As people who flew to Bari, went on to Matera by bus (where 24 hours was enough for us too, much to our surprise), went back by bus to Bari, I suspect we are on the same page. We've rarely felt "cheated" in experience by not having a car. The process of picking up the car, dropping off the car, not fighting for or paying for parking spaces is hardly a trip negative.
Thank you!
AZ
As people who flew to Bari, went on to Matera by bus (where 24 hours was enough for us too, much to our surprise), went back by bus to Bari, I suspect we are on the same page. We've rarely felt "cheated" in experience by not having a car. The process of picking up the car, dropping off the car, not fighting for or paying for parking spaces is hardly a trip negative.
Thank you!
AZ
Nov 29th, 2024, 11:34 AM
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KWP - That is a great TR! Thank you for this very informative, targeted details on logistics and practical facts report.
I also have Puglia without a car on my list of places to visit. I bookmarked and added many things to my notes. Perfect!
I also have Puglia without a car on my list of places to visit. I bookmarked and added many things to my notes. Perfect!
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