Northern Lights and fiords:Two splendid weeks in Scandinavia!
Nov 25th, 2024, 06:13 PM
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Northern Lights and fiords:Two splendid weeks in Scandinavia!
Hello fellow Fodorites!
We are back from a 2-week trip to Scandinavia. Our itinerary:
— Copenhagen: 3 nights
— Norway (Tromsø, Bergen, Flåm and Oslo): 10 nights
— Stockholm: 2 nights
I wanted to share some trip highlights. I learn so much from those who have written trip reports on this forum — thank you! I hope my summary helps others as they plan their travels to this magical corner of the world.
Before I dive in, a bit about ourselves: my husband and I are retired, are in our 60s, and want to see as much of the world while we can. We love art, food, photography and walking.
We were in Copenhagen by ourselves but then were joined by our cousins from California, also in their 60s, for the Norway and Stockholm portion. Seeing the Northern Lights — and for us, meeting old friends in Copenhagen — inspired the trip.
Copenhagen
We flew United/Lufthansa from Chicago to Copenhagen, with a short stop in Frankfurt. A young girl sitting next to me during the first flight was headed to Helsinki from Frankfurt, and told me that this was her first international trip — I was so excited for her!
When I told her I was hoping to see the Northern Lights in Norway, she quickly whipped out her phone and showed me pictures of the auroras she had captured by Lake Michigan in Wisconsin — they have been visible all over North America this year, of course. “You are going all the way to Norway to see this?” she asked me incredulously. “I could see them from my backyard!”
“Lucky you” I thought to myself, my goodwill towards her evaporating somewhat. “I will now have to shoot myself if I don’t see those darned lights!”
Apart from this, the flights were uneventful, Copenhagen’s airport unexpectedly large and energetic, and the immigration quick. After collecting our luggage we debated buying the 72-hour Copenhagen Card. An advantage of the card is that you can see many key sites and take public transportation for free, including from the airport to the city center. Although it was tempting, we decided against it. We were going to visit friends for one of our three days here and we did not know how many sites we would be seeing to make the card worthwhile.
A taxi took us to the Admiral Hotel, our home for the next three nights. The historic hotel was in a very convenient location right by the waterfront, and we were next to many attractions. But we also walked all over this lovely city.
Copenhagen Sights
Our hotel was a five-minute walk to Nyhavn. The 17th-century waterfront was charming, with colorful houses, busy restaurants, and wooden boats moored in the inner harbor. Once the playground for sailors, today it was filled with happy tourists and groups of friends having lunch. We joined the crowd and ducked into Nyhavn 38 for smorgasbord. My little tray had three open-faced sandwiches — strong rye bread piled with fish, shrimp, and eggs, all topped with various condiments. It was fun eating a good meal by the water, a great spot for people watching.
Nyhavn on a sunny day
Lunch!
On the other side of Nyhavn sits the Little Mermaid. Passing the house where Hans Christian lived for 16 years, we made our way to the statue inspired by his creation. The mermaid is small — she is little, after all — and sits on the rocks bordering the water. The sun was behind her when we visited so it was hard to see her face.
The Little Mermaid
We were on our way in five minutes after taking some obligatory pictures.
— Canal Tour: We had beautiful, autumnal weather throughout our stay in Copenhagen — contrary to the rainy forecast — and it was wonderful to be under sunny skies as we took an hour-long Canal Tour. Snaking through Copenhagen’s canals and waterways was invigorating and educational. The tour by Stromma started at Nyhavn, right by restaurant row, and the guide pointed out many interesting buildings, including the Opera House; a giant recycling plant with a roof that doubles as a ski slope; various churches and palaces; and the stock market building which has recently burned down. We also sailed through various neighborhoods and saw the residential facets of the city.
The Opera House
View from the water: Churches and Canals
View from the water: Bridges and buildings
— Our visit to the Designmuseum Denmark was absolutely spectacular! Some of the displays mimicked how items would have been arranged in earlier times; other rooms showcased how designers were designing for the future; and there was a large section devoted to Irma, Denmark’s beloved supermarket chain (now closed). But the most interesting was the huge collection of chairs, highlighting how Danish designers have influenced this piece of furniture.
Chairs!
Beautiful tableware
Retro design
Hungry after our visit, we had lunch at the museum cafe and were surprised at how good our grilled cheese sandwich and salad were. Young waitresses dressed in the navy Irma costume provided excellent service; a Danish couple celebrating their 20th wedding anniversary at the next table urged me to try the house rose. We discussed American politics (the presidential elections were two weeks away) and life in Copenhagen. A memorable meal and visit.
— Amalienborg Palace: The home of Danish royalty today, the palace, very close to the Design Museum, sits on a huge square.
The Palace
There were buses disgorging tourists and sentries guarding the palace gates. The building, guarded by a statue of King Frederick V, was not very impressive and is not open to visitors. The Palace Museum next to it is, but based on lukewarm reviews from some of the visitors who were trickling out, we gave it a miss.
— We went instead to the 18th-century Frederik’s Church close to the palace. With its giant green dome — the largest in Scandinavia— and Rocco architecture it is one of the most significant churches in the city. It is also known as the Marble Church and when you enter it, you see why. The marble interior and decorative dome exude a sense of purity and calm.
The green dome
The white interior
— Tivoli: We walked one evening from our hotel to Tivoli Gardens, which was decked out in orange, witches, and huge pumpkins for Halloween. The place was overrun with excited kids and their patient parents; with screaming teenagers on hairy rides; with beautiful lights and ornaments; and many vendors offering every junk food you could want. In short, perfection!
Tivoli: Ready for Halloween!
Scary toys delighted the kids!
Huge pumpkins and a witchy wedding.
Crazy rides!
We did not go on any rides but wandered the beautiful gardens, bought some glass ornaments, and soaked up the ambiance for a few hours.
— Rosenborg Castle: Copenhagen offers so many palaces and castles! We had initially did not want to see any of them — I may sound spoilt, but we have seen so many all across Europe and there are only so many riches you can take in — but Rosenborg seemed to be a way to learn about Danish history — something I know woefully little about — and see the Crown Jewels. Plus, our new friends at the Design Museum had recommended it!
We walked to the castle on a crisp morning, a 20-minute ramble, and crossed the King’s garden to the castle. King Christian IV — the same who named Norway’s capital Christiana after himself — built it as a summer house in the 17th century, and it has been expanded since. Rooms full of silver, tapestries depicting war scenes, royal portraits, Venetian glass, and thrones guarded by lions adorned three floors of the castle.
The castle and its gardens
An ivory statue
Ornate rooms
A separate entrance led to a basement that house the Danish Crown Jewels. Elegant crowns, gold jewelry and swords, orbs and gems the size of ostrich eggs — the museum showed off the wealth that befitted monarchs who once ruled Sweden and Norway in addition to Denmark and Greenland. Many of the pieces are still used today on royal occasions.
The Crowns
Glitter and gold
— Stroget, one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe was fun to amble through as we cut across it to get to restaurants and Tivoli. High-end stores, shawarma shops, trinket stores, and burger joints, lined the street and given the nice weather, people were out in great numbers. Some cafes were offering Gluhwein to go. What more could you want?
— Train to Virum: Our friends live in the suburb of Virum so we travelled by train to spend one day with them. We walked to Østerport station, a 25-minute walk from our hotel, bought timed tickets at the 7-11 inside the station and boarded a train 8 minutes later. So convenient, clean and comfortable!
Copenhagen Restaurants
We were in the city over a weekend and I had made reservations at a couple of restaurants to make sure we had good meals!
Restaurant Komplet: This restaurant in Indre By (Inner City) run by a husband and wife team garners rave reviews. It is a small space and I am glad we had reservations. There are two wood-beamed rooms up a flight of stairs, the decor is elegant, and the building several centuries old. The menu offered a 2-course meal and we shared a salad — crawfish salad with a tamarind mustard dressing to start.
Beef with potatoes, mushrooms and a mustard sauce. Yum!
For mains, my husband opted for the pork with a stewed apple and black currents, and I had the beef with black pepper and mushrooms. Both came with wonderful house potatoes. We ended by sharing a Gateau Marcel. Our waitress Julia was warm and efficient — she was single handed taking orders and chatting with customers. I did not know much about Danish cuisine and the wonderful food here was a great introduction!
Restaurant Tight: Right off Stroget street, this was another well-rated restaurant noted for its cocktails. I had made a reservation a month prior, so it was disappointing that because the main room upstairs was full with a huge party, we were seated right next to noisy bar.
I had a whiskey sour and it was okay, as was the service. The food, though, was excellent. We shared a shrimp and asparagus starter, along with a venison carpaccio.
Succulent shrimp with asparagus
Venison carpaccio
The portions were generous and just when we thought we were done, a young couple came in and sat at the table behind us. Without even looking at the menu they ordered fish and shellfish pasta each. When the waiter passed us with the two entrees, the aroma that wafted by was just amazing. No wonder the two hungry diners — clearly regulars — devoured their meal in record time!
So we decided to order one dish to share, and I am so glad!
Heavenly pasta!
The al dente pasta was smothered in a delicate white sauce, with a heaping of shrimp, mussels, salmon and white fish, and fat shavings of Parmesan topped with cherry tomatoes and basil. The hearty dish was a glorious ending to our meal. We did not need dessert.
Hart: We had coffee and pastries at this lovely bakery behind the palace one morning. They offer a wide assortment of croissants, buns, breads and breakfast goodies. The line when we went was long but moved quickly. The service was wonderful and the coffee strong!
Charm: On our last evening in Copenhagen my husband was ready for something spicy, so we decided to go to this Thai restaurant, a 5-minute walk from our hotel. Like most restaurants we had gone to in this city, the space was small — and packed. We had no reservations but a short wait resulted in a corner table. Again, a single waitress served the 10 tables.
There were loud groups of American tourists, and a few young couples. The menu offered traditional Thai cuisine, and we ordered a Tom Kha Gai soup, a shrimp Pad Thai, and a green curry (very spicy, much to my husband’s delight). Every dish was perfectly executed.
I needed to eat a soothing ice cream after the fiery meal. Fortunately, I found some creamy pistachio gelato at Vaffelbageren, right across the street. All is well that ends well!
Reffen, the largest street food market in Scandinavia, was high on my list of places to visit, but was unfortunately temporarily closed.
Before I wrap up this chapter of the trip, I have to mention how interested the Danes were in the forthcoming American elections (we were there mid-October). I have already mentioned our new-found friends at the Design Museum. But our old friends in Virum too were very curious about the likely outcome and knew so much about the two political parties and the candidates! We did not find this level of curiosity later on in Norway or Stockholm. Not that I am complaining — why think of all that madness when on vacation?!
Also — the Copenhagen Card. When we totaled up the cost of the card for 72 hours against what we paid for tickets to the various sites, plus the taxi fare to and from the airport, we concluded that it was a wash. Also, I liked seeing things at our own pace without stressing about getting our money’s worth. It helped that because our hotel was so centrally located, we did not need public transportation.
We loved Copenhagen, its friendly people and beautiful waterways. We had a short time in the city and I may have to return— if only to eat at Reffen!
Next up: Norway and the Northern Lights!
We are back from a 2-week trip to Scandinavia. Our itinerary:
— Copenhagen: 3 nights
— Norway (Tromsø, Bergen, Flåm and Oslo): 10 nights
— Stockholm: 2 nights
I wanted to share some trip highlights. I learn so much from those who have written trip reports on this forum — thank you! I hope my summary helps others as they plan their travels to this magical corner of the world.
Before I dive in, a bit about ourselves: my husband and I are retired, are in our 60s, and want to see as much of the world while we can. We love art, food, photography and walking.
We were in Copenhagen by ourselves but then were joined by our cousins from California, also in their 60s, for the Norway and Stockholm portion. Seeing the Northern Lights — and for us, meeting old friends in Copenhagen — inspired the trip.
Copenhagen
We flew United/Lufthansa from Chicago to Copenhagen, with a short stop in Frankfurt. A young girl sitting next to me during the first flight was headed to Helsinki from Frankfurt, and told me that this was her first international trip — I was so excited for her!
When I told her I was hoping to see the Northern Lights in Norway, she quickly whipped out her phone and showed me pictures of the auroras she had captured by Lake Michigan in Wisconsin — they have been visible all over North America this year, of course. “You are going all the way to Norway to see this?” she asked me incredulously. “I could see them from my backyard!”
“Lucky you” I thought to myself, my goodwill towards her evaporating somewhat. “I will now have to shoot myself if I don’t see those darned lights!”
Apart from this, the flights were uneventful, Copenhagen’s airport unexpectedly large and energetic, and the immigration quick. After collecting our luggage we debated buying the 72-hour Copenhagen Card. An advantage of the card is that you can see many key sites and take public transportation for free, including from the airport to the city center. Although it was tempting, we decided against it. We were going to visit friends for one of our three days here and we did not know how many sites we would be seeing to make the card worthwhile.
A taxi took us to the Admiral Hotel, our home for the next three nights. The historic hotel was in a very convenient location right by the waterfront, and we were next to many attractions. But we also walked all over this lovely city.
Copenhagen Sights
Our hotel was a five-minute walk to Nyhavn. The 17th-century waterfront was charming, with colorful houses, busy restaurants, and wooden boats moored in the inner harbor. Once the playground for sailors, today it was filled with happy tourists and groups of friends having lunch. We joined the crowd and ducked into Nyhavn 38 for smorgasbord. My little tray had three open-faced sandwiches — strong rye bread piled with fish, shrimp, and eggs, all topped with various condiments. It was fun eating a good meal by the water, a great spot for people watching.
Nyhavn on a sunny day
Lunch!
On the other side of Nyhavn sits the Little Mermaid. Passing the house where Hans Christian lived for 16 years, we made our way to the statue inspired by his creation. The mermaid is small — she is little, after all — and sits on the rocks bordering the water. The sun was behind her when we visited so it was hard to see her face.
The Little Mermaid
We were on our way in five minutes after taking some obligatory pictures.
— Canal Tour: We had beautiful, autumnal weather throughout our stay in Copenhagen — contrary to the rainy forecast — and it was wonderful to be under sunny skies as we took an hour-long Canal Tour. Snaking through Copenhagen’s canals and waterways was invigorating and educational. The tour by Stromma started at Nyhavn, right by restaurant row, and the guide pointed out many interesting buildings, including the Opera House; a giant recycling plant with a roof that doubles as a ski slope; various churches and palaces; and the stock market building which has recently burned down. We also sailed through various neighborhoods and saw the residential facets of the city.
The Opera House
View from the water: Churches and Canals
View from the water: Bridges and buildings
— Our visit to the Designmuseum Denmark was absolutely spectacular! Some of the displays mimicked how items would have been arranged in earlier times; other rooms showcased how designers were designing for the future; and there was a large section devoted to Irma, Denmark’s beloved supermarket chain (now closed). But the most interesting was the huge collection of chairs, highlighting how Danish designers have influenced this piece of furniture.
Chairs!
Beautiful tableware
Retro design
Hungry after our visit, we had lunch at the museum cafe and were surprised at how good our grilled cheese sandwich and salad were. Young waitresses dressed in the navy Irma costume provided excellent service; a Danish couple celebrating their 20th wedding anniversary at the next table urged me to try the house rose. We discussed American politics (the presidential elections were two weeks away) and life in Copenhagen. A memorable meal and visit.
— Amalienborg Palace: The home of Danish royalty today, the palace, very close to the Design Museum, sits on a huge square.
The Palace
There were buses disgorging tourists and sentries guarding the palace gates. The building, guarded by a statue of King Frederick V, was not very impressive and is not open to visitors. The Palace Museum next to it is, but based on lukewarm reviews from some of the visitors who were trickling out, we gave it a miss.
— We went instead to the 18th-century Frederik’s Church close to the palace. With its giant green dome — the largest in Scandinavia— and Rocco architecture it is one of the most significant churches in the city. It is also known as the Marble Church and when you enter it, you see why. The marble interior and decorative dome exude a sense of purity and calm.
The green dome
The white interior
— Tivoli: We walked one evening from our hotel to Tivoli Gardens, which was decked out in orange, witches, and huge pumpkins for Halloween. The place was overrun with excited kids and their patient parents; with screaming teenagers on hairy rides; with beautiful lights and ornaments; and many vendors offering every junk food you could want. In short, perfection!
Tivoli: Ready for Halloween!
Scary toys delighted the kids!
Huge pumpkins and a witchy wedding.
Crazy rides!
We did not go on any rides but wandered the beautiful gardens, bought some glass ornaments, and soaked up the ambiance for a few hours.
— Rosenborg Castle: Copenhagen offers so many palaces and castles! We had initially did not want to see any of them — I may sound spoilt, but we have seen so many all across Europe and there are only so many riches you can take in — but Rosenborg seemed to be a way to learn about Danish history — something I know woefully little about — and see the Crown Jewels. Plus, our new friends at the Design Museum had recommended it!
We walked to the castle on a crisp morning, a 20-minute ramble, and crossed the King’s garden to the castle. King Christian IV — the same who named Norway’s capital Christiana after himself — built it as a summer house in the 17th century, and it has been expanded since. Rooms full of silver, tapestries depicting war scenes, royal portraits, Venetian glass, and thrones guarded by lions adorned three floors of the castle.
The castle and its gardens
An ivory statue
Ornate rooms
A separate entrance led to a basement that house the Danish Crown Jewels. Elegant crowns, gold jewelry and swords, orbs and gems the size of ostrich eggs — the museum showed off the wealth that befitted monarchs who once ruled Sweden and Norway in addition to Denmark and Greenland. Many of the pieces are still used today on royal occasions.
The Crowns
Glitter and gold
— Stroget, one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe was fun to amble through as we cut across it to get to restaurants and Tivoli. High-end stores, shawarma shops, trinket stores, and burger joints, lined the street and given the nice weather, people were out in great numbers. Some cafes were offering Gluhwein to go. What more could you want?
— Train to Virum: Our friends live in the suburb of Virum so we travelled by train to spend one day with them. We walked to Østerport station, a 25-minute walk from our hotel, bought timed tickets at the 7-11 inside the station and boarded a train 8 minutes later. So convenient, clean and comfortable!
Copenhagen Restaurants
We were in the city over a weekend and I had made reservations at a couple of restaurants to make sure we had good meals!
Restaurant Komplet: This restaurant in Indre By (Inner City) run by a husband and wife team garners rave reviews. It is a small space and I am glad we had reservations. There are two wood-beamed rooms up a flight of stairs, the decor is elegant, and the building several centuries old. The menu offered a 2-course meal and we shared a salad — crawfish salad with a tamarind mustard dressing to start.
Beef with potatoes, mushrooms and a mustard sauce. Yum!
For mains, my husband opted for the pork with a stewed apple and black currents, and I had the beef with black pepper and mushrooms. Both came with wonderful house potatoes. We ended by sharing a Gateau Marcel. Our waitress Julia was warm and efficient — she was single handed taking orders and chatting with customers. I did not know much about Danish cuisine and the wonderful food here was a great introduction!
Restaurant Tight: Right off Stroget street, this was another well-rated restaurant noted for its cocktails. I had made a reservation a month prior, so it was disappointing that because the main room upstairs was full with a huge party, we were seated right next to noisy bar.
I had a whiskey sour and it was okay, as was the service. The food, though, was excellent. We shared a shrimp and asparagus starter, along with a venison carpaccio.
Succulent shrimp with asparagus
Venison carpaccio
The portions were generous and just when we thought we were done, a young couple came in and sat at the table behind us. Without even looking at the menu they ordered fish and shellfish pasta each. When the waiter passed us with the two entrees, the aroma that wafted by was just amazing. No wonder the two hungry diners — clearly regulars — devoured their meal in record time!
So we decided to order one dish to share, and I am so glad!
Heavenly pasta!
The al dente pasta was smothered in a delicate white sauce, with a heaping of shrimp, mussels, salmon and white fish, and fat shavings of Parmesan topped with cherry tomatoes and basil. The hearty dish was a glorious ending to our meal. We did not need dessert.
Hart: We had coffee and pastries at this lovely bakery behind the palace one morning. They offer a wide assortment of croissants, buns, breads and breakfast goodies. The line when we went was long but moved quickly. The service was wonderful and the coffee strong!
Charm: On our last evening in Copenhagen my husband was ready for something spicy, so we decided to go to this Thai restaurant, a 5-minute walk from our hotel. Like most restaurants we had gone to in this city, the space was small — and packed. We had no reservations but a short wait resulted in a corner table. Again, a single waitress served the 10 tables.
There were loud groups of American tourists, and a few young couples. The menu offered traditional Thai cuisine, and we ordered a Tom Kha Gai soup, a shrimp Pad Thai, and a green curry (very spicy, much to my husband’s delight). Every dish was perfectly executed.
I needed to eat a soothing ice cream after the fiery meal. Fortunately, I found some creamy pistachio gelato at Vaffelbageren, right across the street. All is well that ends well!
Reffen, the largest street food market in Scandinavia, was high on my list of places to visit, but was unfortunately temporarily closed.
Before I wrap up this chapter of the trip, I have to mention how interested the Danes were in the forthcoming American elections (we were there mid-October). I have already mentioned our new-found friends at the Design Museum. But our old friends in Virum too were very curious about the likely outcome and knew so much about the two political parties and the candidates! We did not find this level of curiosity later on in Norway or Stockholm. Not that I am complaining — why think of all that madness when on vacation?!
Also — the Copenhagen Card. When we totaled up the cost of the card for 72 hours against what we paid for tickets to the various sites, plus the taxi fare to and from the airport, we concluded that it was a wash. Also, I liked seeing things at our own pace without stressing about getting our money’s worth. It helped that because our hotel was so centrally located, we did not need public transportation.
We loved Copenhagen, its friendly people and beautiful waterways. We had a short time in the city and I may have to return— if only to eat at Reffen!
Next up: Norway and the Northern Lights!
Last edited by reddy2go2; Nov 25th, 2024 at 06:39 PM.
Nov 25th, 2024, 07:40 PM
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I love your report and photos about Copenhagen! So interesting and so informative. We haven’t been to Scandinavia yet. We would like to go but no definite plans yet. Was it very cold? What kinds of temps?
Love the photos with the fall and Halloween decorations! I love visiting places in October because it’s always so festive.
Love the photos with the fall and Halloween decorations! I love visiting places in October because it’s always so festive.
Nov 26th, 2024, 03:41 PM
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Thanks KarenWoo , danon and mlgb for following along. Glad that some of you also enjoyed the Spain TR!! We took these trips close together and wanted to write them up before I forgot the details!
KarenWoo — the temps were autumnal in Copenhagen and not too bad in Norway. A warm coat and light gloves kept us comfy. Except one day in Tromsø when we had biting wind. In Stockholm we were actually fairly warm! We are from Chicago and not fazed by the cold so perhaps that helped!
KarenWoo — the temps were autumnal in Copenhagen and not too bad in Norway. A warm coat and light gloves kept us comfy. Except one day in Tromsø when we had biting wind. In Stockholm we were actually fairly warm! We are from Chicago and not fazed by the cold so perhaps that helped!
Nov 26th, 2024, 09:26 PM
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Following your TR with great interest. We last visited Scandinavia in 2006 (unforgettable memories, especially spectacular Norway), so a return is long overdue ! And we missed Copenhagen, so this first installment has been very useful already.
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Nov 27th, 2024, 11:40 AM
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Norway!!
First stop: Tromsø for four nights
We flew from Copenhagen to Tromsø via Oslo on Norwegian Airlines and landed there late in the evening. It was wonderful to meet our cousins there — they had flown from San Francisco so had had a much longer journey than us!
Right at the small baggage claim area there was a kiosk where you could buy a round trip bus fare online to the city center. We had quite a bit of luggage between us — all the woolens we had packed for this Arctic climate meant we had one checked in bag per couple plus carryons and backpacks. So taking the bus, which would drop us right to our hotel, the last stop, versus two taxis made sense.
We drove through the deserted town to our hotel, our home for four nights. The Scandic Ishavshotel is right on the waterfront and as we would discover the next morning, we had an amazing view of the fiord. Our room was a little small, but had all the amenities — a coffee maker, a safe, and even an iron. We were set!
Right across the hotel was Yonas, a pizza joint, and a bar, so after checking in we repaired to the latter to catch up after a long day. It was 10.30 p.m. by the time we finished our drinks — and got our first taste of how expensive Norway is — and the pizza place had closed. We wandered the dead city looking for a place to eat and finally found a shawarma shop. The cheerful owner was from Syria and happy to see customers at this late hour. After an okay gyros salad and wonderful hot fries, we wandered some more, too excited to call it a day, hoping to see the Northern Lights. By the harbor behind our hotel we met folks from Miami trying their luck too. But by 1 a.m. we gave up and got to bed.
The next morning we discovered not only the wonderful view from our window but also the fantastic hotel breakfast. It was one of the best I have had — made to order coffee and eggs; pancakes and crepes; mounds of fruit and wonderful crusty breads; herring salads, salmon, potatoes and meats. And the cheese! I had brown cheese for the first time — it tastes like a nutty caramelized goat cheese and is unique to Scandinavia. Spectacular!
Much fortified, we set out to walk across the city center to a long bridge to the other side of town. We planned to take the cable car to the top of Storsteinen mountain for panoramic views of Tromsø and the fjords. It was a sunny day but a biting wind started up, and we were glad we had donned our winter coats, scarves and gloves.
The city center was lively that late morning. It has the northern-most university in the world, so there were many young people with backpacks milling about the city center. There were plenty of tourists too, of course, given that this is supposed to be a great year for seeing the Northern Lights due to heightened solar activity. In fact, many of the guests in our hotel were from Asia — mainly India and China.
There were plenty of shops selling warm clothes and winter sports equipment. A big mall seemed to have the high-end stores.
We made our way to the bridge at the end of the city center, and the walk across it seemed longer because of the weather. Actually, there is a bus that goes to the cable car entrance from the city center but we had wanted the exercise. Well, we got plenty! It took us a while to find out exactly where the cable car began and then we discovered that the 2-minute a trip to the mountaintop and back was $45 per person! That was our second sticker shock.
Tromso at night
The blue fiords
However, the views made up for it. Blue fiords surrounded by mountain peaks glittered below us. Boats and cruise ships plied the water. Sitting 350 kms above the Arctic Circle, Tromsø was a gateway for polar explorers; Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen frequently used Tromsø as a base for their expeditions, often recruiting crew members and acquiring supplies here. It was amazing to think that these intrepid polar pioneers had navigated the fiords below us. We could not tear our eyes away from the beauty.
But it was cold! So after an hour we rode the cable car down and walked to the Arctic Cathedral. This huge glass and steel structure, built in the 1960s, is a city landmark and its sloping roof is visible across Tromsø Sound. There is an entrance fee of about $10 to see the stained glass altar. It is very modern in design and though the altar is beautiful, the whole structure was not my cup of tea.
Stained glass altar
We walked back to the city center. As in Copenhagen, bus or train tickets have to be bought at a 7-11 only and since there was none in sight, and no taxis either, we had no option. The bright day was fading and clouds were rolling in. We did not know what that meant for our chances to see the Northern Lights that night. After a quick bite of pizza we went to our hotel to get ready for the 6 p.m. pick up.
After much research, I had signed up with Arctic Explorers for two Northern Lights tours, on two consecutive nights. We had read that September-October and February-March held the best possibilities for celestial viewings. But of course, there are no guarantees. So we had stayed in Tromsø an extra night in case we needed to add another tour.
Arctic Explorers has asked us to wear thermal underwear, many layers, a warm woolen sweater, and thick socks. Mittens were recommended as they retain heat better than gloves. Suitably clad, we waited at the hotel entrance and were promptly picked up at the appointed time, along with 15 others. We piled into a small bus and were taken to their warehouse five minutes away where we were given thermal suits and boots.
Our young guide, Angel, reiterated that we could be out in the open for another 8 hours as we chased the lights and needed the protection. He asked us what we would like for dinner — impossibly, the choices ranged from chicken tikka masala to baked cod. We wondered which restaurant in Tromsø served such an array! He also gave us a sobering talk about how fickle the lights are. The night sky was unpromisingly cloudy tonight and while he would try his best, spying the auroras was up to the nature gods.
Angel was from Granada, Spain, and worked there as a wedding photographer in the summer and then guided tours like this one the rest of the year. Seemed like an idyllic existence!
Our expectations set low, we traveled an hour in the darkness and stopped at the edge of a road. Angel had been consulting weather sites and talking to other guides to scope out the best location for a sighting, and had picked this one.
The sky above us was pitch dark, and full of rolling clouds. Angel gave us headlamps and asked us to walk down to a cove by an inlet. We would wait here to see if the cloud pattern changed. If the moon and stars came out from behind the clouds, that was a good sign.
We waited for another 45 minutes in pitch darkness. Disappointed, Angel brought out dinner — dried meals in a pouch. He and our driver, Gene, handed us the meal we had chosen, then poured hot water in the pouch and gave us wooden spoons. After waiting for the ingredients to soak up the water for 10 minutes, I savored my chicken tikka masala and rice, high in the Arctic Circle!
And then, miraculously, the clouds parted. The moon appeared and soon, many bright stars and constellations. We held our collective breath.
Slowly, bursts of green punctuated the sky and blossomed into myriad shapes. Dancing, swooshing, waving, the auroras mesmerized us for an hour. It was an other-worldly experience and were awed and excited in equal measure. Angel took our pictures against the lights and advised us to just enjoy the moment. We did, though it was hard not to take endless photos!
The show starts
Amazing!
When the lights had finally died down Angel and Gene lit a fire and we roasted marshmallows for dessert. Our thermal suits were warm and thick enough for us to lie on the grass and gaze at the sky, looking for more lights.
Around midnight, we gave up and hauled ourselves back to the van with the help of our headlights. Just as we were getting in, the sky lit up again with sweeping green and red auroras. It was as if they were waiting to say goodbye to us. We hung out by the road for a long time taking in Act 2.
Act 2
Angel had chosen a great spot. There was no other tourist group around so it felt like this was a private viewing just for us. After the drive back and a quick stop at the warehouse to return our gear, we were in bed by 2 a.m.
The next morning after a later breakfast, my husband and I visited the Polar Museum close to our hotel. It is a small wooden building but packs a punch — there were wonderful exhibits and information in English about how indigenous people have been living in this inhospitable area for centuries, and how Europeans started wintering there to hunt seals, whales and polar bears, and the politics that ensued.
Exhibits showcase a hard life
A replica of the Fram
Roald Amundsen
Rooms were also devoted to Nansen and Amundsen’s expeditions; we were going to see the Fram — the ship that served both explorers — in Oslo later in the trip so this preview was inspiring. The museum was a great place to learn about the Arctic, its people, and its habitat!
That evening we were again picked up by Arctic Explorers and followed the same routine for gear and dinner. Again, conditions were very cloudy so we drove for a long time — almost to Finland — hoping to see a grand show again. While we had some faint sightings, they were nothing compared to what we had seen the night before.
Fainter lights
An older couple were from Australia and they kept searching the sky for brighter lights. They were staying at our hotel for two more nights so hoped for better luck then. But a group from the Philippines had budgeted for only one tour. They were satisfied they had seen something — if only a smear — and retired quickly to the bus given the cold. They had refused the thermal suits.
Our guide Louis had come to Tromsø from Toulouse, France, to study, and stayed because he ended up falling in love with the Arctic gateway. I found such transplant stories so interesting! Would I leave sunny Provence for Tromso? He knew a lot of Viking lore and kept us entertained until we finally gave up and headed back around 1 a.m.
We were absolutely lucky to have seen an amazing show the night before and counted our blessings. Many tourists had come from distant countries but had seen precious little aurora activity.
For our last day in Tromsø we had signed up for a whale watching tour with an outfit called Cruise Services. Late October is early in the season to spot whales and orcas feeding off herring along Tromso’s waters, so this was one of the few providers who offered an early date.
There were many people on the dock next to our hotel to board the catamaran at 9 a.m. but unfortunately the boat had a malfunctioning engine and could not make the trip.
Bitterly disappointed — this is great for whale watching— we spent the day just wandering the town and catching up on sleep. My cousin went to a sauna, followed by a dip in the icy fiord waters. Brrrr!!
Tromsø offers many other activities in the winter — reindeer and husky sledding, meeting the indigenous Sami people, for example — but for that you have to be here later in the season. Options for another trip, perhaps.
Next morning we took the bus back to the airport, and a direct flight to Bergen on Wideroo.
First stop: Tromsø for four nights
We flew from Copenhagen to Tromsø via Oslo on Norwegian Airlines and landed there late in the evening. It was wonderful to meet our cousins there — they had flown from San Francisco so had had a much longer journey than us!
Right at the small baggage claim area there was a kiosk where you could buy a round trip bus fare online to the city center. We had quite a bit of luggage between us — all the woolens we had packed for this Arctic climate meant we had one checked in bag per couple plus carryons and backpacks. So taking the bus, which would drop us right to our hotel, the last stop, versus two taxis made sense.
We drove through the deserted town to our hotel, our home for four nights. The Scandic Ishavshotel is right on the waterfront and as we would discover the next morning, we had an amazing view of the fiord. Our room was a little small, but had all the amenities — a coffee maker, a safe, and even an iron. We were set!
Right across the hotel was Yonas, a pizza joint, and a bar, so after checking in we repaired to the latter to catch up after a long day. It was 10.30 p.m. by the time we finished our drinks — and got our first taste of how expensive Norway is — and the pizza place had closed. We wandered the dead city looking for a place to eat and finally found a shawarma shop. The cheerful owner was from Syria and happy to see customers at this late hour. After an okay gyros salad and wonderful hot fries, we wandered some more, too excited to call it a day, hoping to see the Northern Lights. By the harbor behind our hotel we met folks from Miami trying their luck too. But by 1 a.m. we gave up and got to bed.
The next morning we discovered not only the wonderful view from our window but also the fantastic hotel breakfast. It was one of the best I have had — made to order coffee and eggs; pancakes and crepes; mounds of fruit and wonderful crusty breads; herring salads, salmon, potatoes and meats. And the cheese! I had brown cheese for the first time — it tastes like a nutty caramelized goat cheese and is unique to Scandinavia. Spectacular!
Much fortified, we set out to walk across the city center to a long bridge to the other side of town. We planned to take the cable car to the top of Storsteinen mountain for panoramic views of Tromsø and the fjords. It was a sunny day but a biting wind started up, and we were glad we had donned our winter coats, scarves and gloves.
The city center was lively that late morning. It has the northern-most university in the world, so there were many young people with backpacks milling about the city center. There were plenty of tourists too, of course, given that this is supposed to be a great year for seeing the Northern Lights due to heightened solar activity. In fact, many of the guests in our hotel were from Asia — mainly India and China.
There were plenty of shops selling warm clothes and winter sports equipment. A big mall seemed to have the high-end stores.
We made our way to the bridge at the end of the city center, and the walk across it seemed longer because of the weather. Actually, there is a bus that goes to the cable car entrance from the city center but we had wanted the exercise. Well, we got plenty! It took us a while to find out exactly where the cable car began and then we discovered that the 2-minute a trip to the mountaintop and back was $45 per person! That was our second sticker shock.
Tromso at night
The blue fiords
However, the views made up for it. Blue fiords surrounded by mountain peaks glittered below us. Boats and cruise ships plied the water. Sitting 350 kms above the Arctic Circle, Tromsø was a gateway for polar explorers; Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen frequently used Tromsø as a base for their expeditions, often recruiting crew members and acquiring supplies here. It was amazing to think that these intrepid polar pioneers had navigated the fiords below us. We could not tear our eyes away from the beauty.
But it was cold! So after an hour we rode the cable car down and walked to the Arctic Cathedral. This huge glass and steel structure, built in the 1960s, is a city landmark and its sloping roof is visible across Tromsø Sound. There is an entrance fee of about $10 to see the stained glass altar. It is very modern in design and though the altar is beautiful, the whole structure was not my cup of tea.
Stained glass altar
We walked back to the city center. As in Copenhagen, bus or train tickets have to be bought at a 7-11 only and since there was none in sight, and no taxis either, we had no option. The bright day was fading and clouds were rolling in. We did not know what that meant for our chances to see the Northern Lights that night. After a quick bite of pizza we went to our hotel to get ready for the 6 p.m. pick up.
After much research, I had signed up with Arctic Explorers for two Northern Lights tours, on two consecutive nights. We had read that September-October and February-March held the best possibilities for celestial viewings. But of course, there are no guarantees. So we had stayed in Tromsø an extra night in case we needed to add another tour.
Arctic Explorers has asked us to wear thermal underwear, many layers, a warm woolen sweater, and thick socks. Mittens were recommended as they retain heat better than gloves. Suitably clad, we waited at the hotel entrance and were promptly picked up at the appointed time, along with 15 others. We piled into a small bus and were taken to their warehouse five minutes away where we were given thermal suits and boots.
Our young guide, Angel, reiterated that we could be out in the open for another 8 hours as we chased the lights and needed the protection. He asked us what we would like for dinner — impossibly, the choices ranged from chicken tikka masala to baked cod. We wondered which restaurant in Tromsø served such an array! He also gave us a sobering talk about how fickle the lights are. The night sky was unpromisingly cloudy tonight and while he would try his best, spying the auroras was up to the nature gods.
Angel was from Granada, Spain, and worked there as a wedding photographer in the summer and then guided tours like this one the rest of the year. Seemed like an idyllic existence!
Our expectations set low, we traveled an hour in the darkness and stopped at the edge of a road. Angel had been consulting weather sites and talking to other guides to scope out the best location for a sighting, and had picked this one.
The sky above us was pitch dark, and full of rolling clouds. Angel gave us headlamps and asked us to walk down to a cove by an inlet. We would wait here to see if the cloud pattern changed. If the moon and stars came out from behind the clouds, that was a good sign.
We waited for another 45 minutes in pitch darkness. Disappointed, Angel brought out dinner — dried meals in a pouch. He and our driver, Gene, handed us the meal we had chosen, then poured hot water in the pouch and gave us wooden spoons. After waiting for the ingredients to soak up the water for 10 minutes, I savored my chicken tikka masala and rice, high in the Arctic Circle!
And then, miraculously, the clouds parted. The moon appeared and soon, many bright stars and constellations. We held our collective breath.
Slowly, bursts of green punctuated the sky and blossomed into myriad shapes. Dancing, swooshing, waving, the auroras mesmerized us for an hour. It was an other-worldly experience and were awed and excited in equal measure. Angel took our pictures against the lights and advised us to just enjoy the moment. We did, though it was hard not to take endless photos!
The show starts
Amazing!
When the lights had finally died down Angel and Gene lit a fire and we roasted marshmallows for dessert. Our thermal suits were warm and thick enough for us to lie on the grass and gaze at the sky, looking for more lights.
Around midnight, we gave up and hauled ourselves back to the van with the help of our headlights. Just as we were getting in, the sky lit up again with sweeping green and red auroras. It was as if they were waiting to say goodbye to us. We hung out by the road for a long time taking in Act 2.
Act 2
Angel had chosen a great spot. There was no other tourist group around so it felt like this was a private viewing just for us. After the drive back and a quick stop at the warehouse to return our gear, we were in bed by 2 a.m.
The next morning after a later breakfast, my husband and I visited the Polar Museum close to our hotel. It is a small wooden building but packs a punch — there were wonderful exhibits and information in English about how indigenous people have been living in this inhospitable area for centuries, and how Europeans started wintering there to hunt seals, whales and polar bears, and the politics that ensued.
Exhibits showcase a hard life
A replica of the Fram
Roald Amundsen
Rooms were also devoted to Nansen and Amundsen’s expeditions; we were going to see the Fram — the ship that served both explorers — in Oslo later in the trip so this preview was inspiring. The museum was a great place to learn about the Arctic, its people, and its habitat!
That evening we were again picked up by Arctic Explorers and followed the same routine for gear and dinner. Again, conditions were very cloudy so we drove for a long time — almost to Finland — hoping to see a grand show again. While we had some faint sightings, they were nothing compared to what we had seen the night before.
Fainter lights
An older couple were from Australia and they kept searching the sky for brighter lights. They were staying at our hotel for two more nights so hoped for better luck then. But a group from the Philippines had budgeted for only one tour. They were satisfied they had seen something — if only a smear — and retired quickly to the bus given the cold. They had refused the thermal suits.
Our guide Louis had come to Tromsø from Toulouse, France, to study, and stayed because he ended up falling in love with the Arctic gateway. I found such transplant stories so interesting! Would I leave sunny Provence for Tromso? He knew a lot of Viking lore and kept us entertained until we finally gave up and headed back around 1 a.m.
We were absolutely lucky to have seen an amazing show the night before and counted our blessings. Many tourists had come from distant countries but had seen precious little aurora activity.
For our last day in Tromsø we had signed up for a whale watching tour with an outfit called Cruise Services. Late October is early in the season to spot whales and orcas feeding off herring along Tromso’s waters, so this was one of the few providers who offered an early date.
There were many people on the dock next to our hotel to board the catamaran at 9 a.m. but unfortunately the boat had a malfunctioning engine and could not make the trip.
Bitterly disappointed — this is great for whale watching— we spent the day just wandering the town and catching up on sleep. My cousin went to a sauna, followed by a dip in the icy fiord waters. Brrrr!!
Tromsø offers many other activities in the winter — reindeer and husky sledding, meeting the indigenous Sami people, for example — but for that you have to be here later in the season. Options for another trip, perhaps.
Next morning we took the bus back to the airport, and a direct flight to Bergen on Wideroo.
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PalenQ
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Oct 21st, 2014 01:44 AM
Mylesaway
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