A Pilgrimage to Incredible India
Nov 24th, 2024, 09:07 AM
#22
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shelemm; yes indeed, at least in India. Yes, the picture of the evening aarti is from a boat.
The Holy City
Varanasi, also known as Benares, is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. It is located on the banks of the Ganges River, considered sacred by Hindus. As such, so many religious rituals take place next to or on the river.
We spent most of our time today strolling its many waterfront ghats, admiring its architecture and catching a glimpse of life on the river. People bathe in the river. Clothes were washed there. Locals prayed at the river. People took their dead to be cremated by the river.
Varanasi was truly an assault on the senses, in ways good, bad, and ugly. We've not visited a place more chaotic. We've not visited a place where all of life seems to be on public display. That, coupled with the incessant traffic of its streets and alleyways, got overwhelming and very tiresome. At the same time, there were some feelings of exhilaration.
We also viewed two aarti ceremonies on land today. We saw the sunrise aarti at Assi Ghat and had near front-row access to the sunset ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Both were beautiful and much better seen on land than from the water.
The Holy City
Varanasi, also known as Benares, is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. It is located on the banks of the Ganges River, considered sacred by Hindus. As such, so many religious rituals take place next to or on the river.
We spent most of our time today strolling its many waterfront ghats, admiring its architecture and catching a glimpse of life on the river. People bathe in the river. Clothes were washed there. Locals prayed at the river. People took their dead to be cremated by the river.
Varanasi was truly an assault on the senses, in ways good, bad, and ugly. We've not visited a place more chaotic. We've not visited a place where all of life seems to be on public display. That, coupled with the incessant traffic of its streets and alleyways, got overwhelming and very tiresome. At the same time, there were some feelings of exhilaration.
We also viewed two aarti ceremonies on land today. We saw the sunrise aarti at Assi Ghat and had near front-row access to the sunset ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Both were beautiful and much better seen on land than from the water.
Nov 24th, 2024, 12:32 PM
#23
tripplanner,
Isn’t India amazing and unlike any other place? Looking at your photos and reading your report brings back so many memories- our first trip, especially, was overwhelming and fascinating.
I’m shocked by the level of the smog in Delhi! While it is notorious for the air pollution, your photos are startling in the level of smog. But I understand that this was an unusual occurrence.
I’m also amazed that you’re traveling throughout on your own! And you did manage to do and see so much! We worked with a local company and had a driver take us around everywhere, from Delhi onwards. So I’m awed that you felt comfortable exploring Delhi and elsewhere on your own. Not so much because of the touts or even for safety, but it’s one of the most chaotic places we’ve ever been and having the driver and guide (the latter, at times) certainly smoothed things for us, perhaps sometimes a little too much, but for the most part, we found it very helpful. And there were times when I, as a female, would’ve been immensely uncomfortable without the protection of a guide and/or driver.
I’m loving your experiences, though. Varanasi was one of the most intense of places and remarkable to be there and experience it. I loved it and you capture it well.
I loved reading about your journey to Bodh Gaya. It sounds like an incredible experience but I loved how you describe it as a Buddhist United Nations. While we didn’t go to Bodh Gaya, we did appreciate the visit to Sarnath, where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. I imagine you’ll be going there, too.
And you asked if we’re in Asia. We’ve only just returned from an amazing 5 weeks in Taiwan and Japan and are now trying to adjust to the jet lag after a too-long trip via Turkish Airlines! Fortunately, we survived without getting sick - until we came home. My brain and body are still neither here nor there!
Looking forward to more - India was one of our favorite trips and this is a pleasure to read!
Isn’t India amazing and unlike any other place? Looking at your photos and reading your report brings back so many memories- our first trip, especially, was overwhelming and fascinating.
I’m shocked by the level of the smog in Delhi! While it is notorious for the air pollution, your photos are startling in the level of smog. But I understand that this was an unusual occurrence.
I’m also amazed that you’re traveling throughout on your own! And you did manage to do and see so much! We worked with a local company and had a driver take us around everywhere, from Delhi onwards. So I’m awed that you felt comfortable exploring Delhi and elsewhere on your own. Not so much because of the touts or even for safety, but it’s one of the most chaotic places we’ve ever been and having the driver and guide (the latter, at times) certainly smoothed things for us, perhaps sometimes a little too much, but for the most part, we found it very helpful. And there were times when I, as a female, would’ve been immensely uncomfortable without the protection of a guide and/or driver.
I’m loving your experiences, though. Varanasi was one of the most intense of places and remarkable to be there and experience it. I loved it and you capture it well.
I loved reading about your journey to Bodh Gaya. It sounds like an incredible experience but I loved how you describe it as a Buddhist United Nations. While we didn’t go to Bodh Gaya, we did appreciate the visit to Sarnath, where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. I imagine you’ll be going there, too.
And you asked if we’re in Asia. We’ve only just returned from an amazing 5 weeks in Taiwan and Japan and are now trying to adjust to the jet lag after a too-long trip via Turkish Airlines! Fortunately, we survived without getting sick - until we came home. My brain and body are still neither here nor there!
Looking forward to more - India was one of our favorite trips and this is a pleasure to read!
Last edited by progol; Nov 24th, 2024 at 12:57 PM.
Nov 24th, 2024, 07:20 PM
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This is one excellent trip report. I’m happy to follow it and thank you for all the details.
As for the pollution friends of ours just got back from India yesterday and they did say it was really bad. At one point they were sleeping with masks on in Delhi because the pollution was that bad.
unfortunately, people hassling you in places where you don’t expect it is not uncommon. We once went to Pushkar and were greeted by a so called “religious” student who offered to give us a tour and didn’t want any money. Then when he finished, he began hassling us for money. It happens everywhere I guess.
Wonderful trip report and I will follow
As for the pollution friends of ours just got back from India yesterday and they did say it was really bad. At one point they were sleeping with masks on in Delhi because the pollution was that bad.
unfortunately, people hassling you in places where you don’t expect it is not uncommon. We once went to Pushkar and were greeted by a so called “religious” student who offered to give us a tour and didn’t want any money. Then when he finished, he began hassling us for money. It happens everywhere I guess.
Wonderful trip report and I will follow
Nov 25th, 2024, 02:52 AM
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progol, you are right that India is definitely different from any other place we've visited. We have experienced juxtapositions of emotions on this visit each and every day. Overwhelming and fascinating are two good ways to describe this place. It's both beautiful and dirty. It's both mesmerizing and disorienting. The people are both warm and hospitable and cold and condescending (what I am referring to is the long stares that we get from locals, whether it's standing in line to purchase admission tickets, waiting for the train at the station, or enjoying coffee or tea at a shop, to name a few). There's no other place we visited where the contrasts can be so stark, sometimes within feet and seconds of each other.
The smog is supposed to be its most intense this season. I don't know about other seasons. On the first couple of mornings in Delhi, the smell was noticeable, but not so much anymore. We know it's there both from the visibility and from the black residue from our noses when we do our COVID swabs every 2 to 3 days.
We're doing quite a bit of this trip on our own per usual, but have hired drivers where distances make it tough to do so. So far the healthy mix is working out well for us.
So glad you had a good time in Taiwan and Japan; cannot wait to hear more about it. In the meantime, hope you recover soon.
jacketwatch, thank you for following along and commenting.
Sarnath
Today we visit Sarnath, the site where Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. We traveled by boat from our hotel and then by car to reach Sarnath, about an hour-an-a-half journey given the intense traffic leaving Varanasi.
At Sarnath, we visited the archaeological site and the museum. The site is quite small, with mostly remains of what were monasteries. The largest surviving structure is the Dhamekh Stupa, which includes some of the original carvings. The archaeological museum contains several statues of Buddha, bodhisattvas, as well as Hindu deities.
After the visit, it was back to our hotel, making for a much shorter excursion than we expected. We spent the rest of the day relaxing in our hotel, not bad considering that we're now on day 11 of our trip and this is our down time.
Dhamekh Stupa
Monastery Ruins
Ashokan Pillar
Ashokan Capital
Life of Buddha in Stone
One of Many Buddha Statues
The smog is supposed to be its most intense this season. I don't know about other seasons. On the first couple of mornings in Delhi, the smell was noticeable, but not so much anymore. We know it's there both from the visibility and from the black residue from our noses when we do our COVID swabs every 2 to 3 days.
We're doing quite a bit of this trip on our own per usual, but have hired drivers where distances make it tough to do so. So far the healthy mix is working out well for us.
So glad you had a good time in Taiwan and Japan; cannot wait to hear more about it. In the meantime, hope you recover soon.
jacketwatch, thank you for following along and commenting.
Sarnath
Today we visit Sarnath, the site where Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. We traveled by boat from our hotel and then by car to reach Sarnath, about an hour-an-a-half journey given the intense traffic leaving Varanasi.
At Sarnath, we visited the archaeological site and the museum. The site is quite small, with mostly remains of what were monasteries. The largest surviving structure is the Dhamekh Stupa, which includes some of the original carvings. The archaeological museum contains several statues of Buddha, bodhisattvas, as well as Hindu deities.
After the visit, it was back to our hotel, making for a much shorter excursion than we expected. We spent the rest of the day relaxing in our hotel, not bad considering that we're now on day 11 of our trip and this is our down time.
Dhamekh Stupa
Monastery Ruins
Ashokan Pillar
Ashokan Capital
Life of Buddha in Stone
One of Many Buddha Statues
Nov 27th, 2024, 10:14 AM
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A Slow Journey Across the Subcontinent
Today was a long transit day. We left our hotel at 5 in the morning and travelled by boat and by car to the airport in Varanasi. Our flight, originally scheduled 6:40 AM, was delayed by close two and a half hours. Airport procedures were quick and efficient even though there was a good number of passengers there. Our flight was then delayed by another 30 minutes and then 30 again. Seems typical this time of year, as northern India frequently gets blanketed with morning fog. Our plane finally departed Varanasi well past 10:00 AM.
We landed in Delhi at 11:50 AM, and were greeted by our driver from Indian Panorama (We are using Indian Panorama from this point of our journey until we get to Mumbai. Thank you to progol once again for your recommendation.). From Delhi it was 4 hours by car to Agra. Unfortunately, there are no quicker options between Varanasi to Agra due to the limited number of flights to Agra. None of the connecting flights available would have put us in Agra on the same day. We considered the high-speed train from Delhi, but by the time we get from the airport to the train station with time factored in for traffic and flight delays, it wouldn't have made a difference.
We reached Agra and our home for the next two nights, the magnificent Oberoi Amarvilas, at 4:30 PM. From the moment we stepped foot on hotel grounds, we were awed by the beautiful architecture and landscape. And the minute we stepped foot in the lobby, we caught our very first glimpse of the Taj Mahal outside the window. The check-in attendant walked us to the balcony to properly enjoy the views of the gleaming white monument, where we enjoyed fresh towels and a cool welcome drink. We were then led to our rooms from where we completed our formalities.
As you could probably tell, we forgot that we were tired after a very long travel day, and became fully immersed in where we are. We were truly living in the moment. How lucky are we to be able to have this moment (even it took a good bit of work and savings).
We also enjoyed a very good dinner at Bellevue, one of the hotel's restaurants. It's one of the best we've had on this trip.
A Full Day in Agra
Today was our one and only full day in Agra. We set out alarm clocks to a quarter to five this morning, so that we can visit the Taj Mahal as soon as it opens. Once we arrived at our lobby, the hotel staff provided us with water and shoe covers for the mausoleum, and shuttled us to the entrance of the Taj Mahal via golf carts. We were at the entrance about 15 or 20 minutes before opening time, along with perhaps 150 to 200 others. The line grew as each minute progressed towards opening time. We lined up at the east entrance, the one closest to our hotel; the same scenes played out at the west and south entrances.
Once the doors were open it was quick to get through, in spite of the number of people. We first reached the magnificent red-sandstone gateway. Passing through it, the white-marble Taj Mahal came into view. While we had really hoped for the "pinch me" moment, it was far from it. The crush of tourists, including several rude ones who were pushing and shoving their way through, to the incessant touts, made it hard to enjoy. Once we moved further down the center path, it became more manageable and more enjoyable. It was only until we reached the base of the mausoleum itself when we were able to tune out the world around us and truly admire the monument among ourselves. We enjoyed viewing the monument from several vantage points, including against an ever changing sky as the sun rose higher and higher. We also surveyed the exterior of the mosque next to the Taj Mahal. From there we continued into the mausoleum itself, paid our respects to Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz. Inside we paid attention to the fine details of marble carvings, mostly of flowers, geometric patterns, and Islamic ornamentation that was familiar to us from our travels through other parts of the Islamic world.
After about 2.5 hours at the Taj Mahal, we returned to our hotel for breakfast followed by the rest of our day. Our next stop was Agra Fort, one of the seats of power during Mughal times. As Agra Fort was as popular as the Taj Mahal, there were both crowds and touts. We again had to ignore them a few times but we explored what piqued our interest. Similar to the Red Fort in Delhi, the fort consists of a private area and a public area. Starting in the private area, we wandered through the many rooms, corridors, and courtyards that make up the complex, passing from red-sandstone from an earlier style (similar to the Red Fort in Delhi) to Shah Jahan's white marble similar to what we saw at the Taj Mahal. Our preference was for the white marbled buildings, with favorites including the Hall for Public Audiences, the Hall of Mirrors (viewed through a locked gate), and the Muthamman Burj. There are good views of the Taj Mahal in the distance in several spots inside the fort.
Next up was the Itimad-ud-Daulah, more commonly known as the Baby Taj. Built a couple of generations earlier, we immediately saw the comparison. The Baby Taj was a pleasant stop, if for no other reason than we were able to enjoy it in relative peace.
From there we drove about 40 minutes to Sikandra, just outside Agra, to visit Akbar's Mausoleum, another grand structure. The entry gate, built of red sandstone inlaid with white marble and topped with four long, slender marble minarets, was exquisite. The main mausoleum itself was one befitting an emperor in that it made a commanding statement. The entrance to the main tomb, though partly covered in scaffolding, still revealed the architectural details one would expect from a Persian-style building of significance, but with more colors. The entrance courtyard leads directly to the tomb down a shaft similar to some of the ones we saw in the Valley of the Kings and Queens, in Luxor, Egypt. All of it was barren although we didn't know if it was how it always was, or perhaps it's because it's in the process of being restored.
From Sikandra, it was back to Agra for a short stroll of the Mehtab Bagh, gardens dating back to Shah Jahan times. The gardens were pleasant for a late-afternoon stroll, although the main reason to visit was for its views of the Taj Mahal. We snapped a few photos before returning to our hotel for what we think was the best view of all of the Taj Mahal, in comfort with a choice beverage among people we want to be with, but best of all nobody trying to talk your ear off.
Dinner tonight was at Esphahan at our hotel. We enjoyed a mix of classical Mughal dishes, including a couple of recreations what was believed to be enjoyed by the emperors at the time.
View of Taj Mahal from Our Hotel Room
Taj Mahal Entrance Gate
Taj Mahal Before Emerging from the Portal
Today was a long transit day. We left our hotel at 5 in the morning and travelled by boat and by car to the airport in Varanasi. Our flight, originally scheduled 6:40 AM, was delayed by close two and a half hours. Airport procedures were quick and efficient even though there was a good number of passengers there. Our flight was then delayed by another 30 minutes and then 30 again. Seems typical this time of year, as northern India frequently gets blanketed with morning fog. Our plane finally departed Varanasi well past 10:00 AM.
We landed in Delhi at 11:50 AM, and were greeted by our driver from Indian Panorama (We are using Indian Panorama from this point of our journey until we get to Mumbai. Thank you to progol once again for your recommendation.). From Delhi it was 4 hours by car to Agra. Unfortunately, there are no quicker options between Varanasi to Agra due to the limited number of flights to Agra. None of the connecting flights available would have put us in Agra on the same day. We considered the high-speed train from Delhi, but by the time we get from the airport to the train station with time factored in for traffic and flight delays, it wouldn't have made a difference.
We reached Agra and our home for the next two nights, the magnificent Oberoi Amarvilas, at 4:30 PM. From the moment we stepped foot on hotel grounds, we were awed by the beautiful architecture and landscape. And the minute we stepped foot in the lobby, we caught our very first glimpse of the Taj Mahal outside the window. The check-in attendant walked us to the balcony to properly enjoy the views of the gleaming white monument, where we enjoyed fresh towels and a cool welcome drink. We were then led to our rooms from where we completed our formalities.
As you could probably tell, we forgot that we were tired after a very long travel day, and became fully immersed in where we are. We were truly living in the moment. How lucky are we to be able to have this moment (even it took a good bit of work and savings).
We also enjoyed a very good dinner at Bellevue, one of the hotel's restaurants. It's one of the best we've had on this trip.
A Full Day in Agra
Today was our one and only full day in Agra. We set out alarm clocks to a quarter to five this morning, so that we can visit the Taj Mahal as soon as it opens. Once we arrived at our lobby, the hotel staff provided us with water and shoe covers for the mausoleum, and shuttled us to the entrance of the Taj Mahal via golf carts. We were at the entrance about 15 or 20 minutes before opening time, along with perhaps 150 to 200 others. The line grew as each minute progressed towards opening time. We lined up at the east entrance, the one closest to our hotel; the same scenes played out at the west and south entrances.
Once the doors were open it was quick to get through, in spite of the number of people. We first reached the magnificent red-sandstone gateway. Passing through it, the white-marble Taj Mahal came into view. While we had really hoped for the "pinch me" moment, it was far from it. The crush of tourists, including several rude ones who were pushing and shoving their way through, to the incessant touts, made it hard to enjoy. Once we moved further down the center path, it became more manageable and more enjoyable. It was only until we reached the base of the mausoleum itself when we were able to tune out the world around us and truly admire the monument among ourselves. We enjoyed viewing the monument from several vantage points, including against an ever changing sky as the sun rose higher and higher. We also surveyed the exterior of the mosque next to the Taj Mahal. From there we continued into the mausoleum itself, paid our respects to Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz. Inside we paid attention to the fine details of marble carvings, mostly of flowers, geometric patterns, and Islamic ornamentation that was familiar to us from our travels through other parts of the Islamic world.
After about 2.5 hours at the Taj Mahal, we returned to our hotel for breakfast followed by the rest of our day. Our next stop was Agra Fort, one of the seats of power during Mughal times. As Agra Fort was as popular as the Taj Mahal, there were both crowds and touts. We again had to ignore them a few times but we explored what piqued our interest. Similar to the Red Fort in Delhi, the fort consists of a private area and a public area. Starting in the private area, we wandered through the many rooms, corridors, and courtyards that make up the complex, passing from red-sandstone from an earlier style (similar to the Red Fort in Delhi) to Shah Jahan's white marble similar to what we saw at the Taj Mahal. Our preference was for the white marbled buildings, with favorites including the Hall for Public Audiences, the Hall of Mirrors (viewed through a locked gate), and the Muthamman Burj. There are good views of the Taj Mahal in the distance in several spots inside the fort.
Next up was the Itimad-ud-Daulah, more commonly known as the Baby Taj. Built a couple of generations earlier, we immediately saw the comparison. The Baby Taj was a pleasant stop, if for no other reason than we were able to enjoy it in relative peace.
From there we drove about 40 minutes to Sikandra, just outside Agra, to visit Akbar's Mausoleum, another grand structure. The entry gate, built of red sandstone inlaid with white marble and topped with four long, slender marble minarets, was exquisite. The main mausoleum itself was one befitting an emperor in that it made a commanding statement. The entrance to the main tomb, though partly covered in scaffolding, still revealed the architectural details one would expect from a Persian-style building of significance, but with more colors. The entrance courtyard leads directly to the tomb down a shaft similar to some of the ones we saw in the Valley of the Kings and Queens, in Luxor, Egypt. All of it was barren although we didn't know if it was how it always was, or perhaps it's because it's in the process of being restored.
From Sikandra, it was back to Agra for a short stroll of the Mehtab Bagh, gardens dating back to Shah Jahan times. The gardens were pleasant for a late-afternoon stroll, although the main reason to visit was for its views of the Taj Mahal. We snapped a few photos before returning to our hotel for what we think was the best view of all of the Taj Mahal, in comfort with a choice beverage among people we want to be with, but best of all nobody trying to talk your ear off.
Dinner tonight was at Esphahan at our hotel. We enjoyed a mix of classical Mughal dishes, including a couple of recreations what was believed to be enjoyed by the emperors at the time.
View of Taj Mahal from Our Hotel Room
Taj Mahal Entrance Gate
Taj Mahal Before Emerging from the Portal
Nov 27th, 2024, 02:52 PM
#31
This is an a fabulous report, both writing and photography.
This paragraph is exactly how I remember India, and you use the same words I have when describing it, contrasts, extremes, beautiful and ugly all at once.
We made friends who stayed in contact with for years, and we also had a man run up to my wife and grab her breast. On the same day.
We were there in 1977 for about 6 weeks, mostly in Rajahstan but also Delhi and Agra (of course), and your pictures and descriptions are bringing back strong memories of our time there. Some of your photos are weirdly similar to mine, at least in my mind.
Somehow we lugged a 3x5' Tibetan carpet from Nepal around in a duffel bag. Now I wonder how the heck we did that. The carpet still hangs on a wall in our house.
Bummer about the smog.
Thanks for posting!
This paragraph is exactly how I remember India, and you use the same words I have when describing it, contrasts, extremes, beautiful and ugly all at once.
... We have experienced juxtapositions of emotions on this visit each and every day. Overwhelming and fascinating are two good ways to describe this place. It's both beautiful and dirty. It's both mesmerizing and disorienting. The people are both warm and hospitable and cold and condescending ... There's no other place we visited where the contrasts can be so stark, sometimes within feet and seconds of each other.
We were there in 1977 for about 6 weeks, mostly in Rajahstan but also Delhi and Agra (of course), and your pictures and descriptions are bringing back strong memories of our time there. Some of your photos are weirdly similar to mine, at least in my mind.
Somehow we lugged a 3x5' Tibetan carpet from Nepal around in a duffel bag. Now I wonder how the heck we did that. The carpet still hangs on a wall in our house.
Bummer about the smog.
Thanks for posting!
Nov 27th, 2024, 03:40 PM
#32
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Just catching up after a week away. Love the detail and the photos! We are on the fence about Varanasi -- not because of the intensity but because we'll likely be limited to about two weeks or just over. It seems like there are some logistics getting there and back, and the time might be better spent broadening our experience in Rajasthan without extra flights, etc. TBD, though. Looking forward to more!
Nov 27th, 2024, 05:44 PM
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TP, this is a great TR - not every day that we all get to read about someone's voyage to Bihar!
My fave foto was your 'flowers atop Buddha's Footprint.'
Nelson nailed it with his highlighted chosen paragraph. That writing was outstanding in the truest sense of the word. Well-done!
We live right beside Toronto's Little India and it just doesn't compare with the real subcontinent.
Ms_Go, maybe consider Bundi, Jodhpur and also Jaiselmer?
The latter two include outstanding daytrip possibilities to 'deep village India' on their outskirts.
I am done. The cobra
My fave foto was your 'flowers atop Buddha's Footprint.'
Nelson nailed it with his highlighted chosen paragraph. That writing was outstanding in the truest sense of the word. Well-done!
We live right beside Toronto's Little India and it just doesn't compare with the real subcontinent.
Ms_Go, maybe consider Bundi, Jodhpur and also Jaiselmer?
The latter two include outstanding daytrip possibilities to 'deep village India' on their outskirts.
I am done. The cobra
Nov 27th, 2024, 06:11 PM
#34
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Nelson, thank you. I expect that in place like in India, some things don't change much and if it does it's at a glacial pace.
ms_go, whether or not it makes sense to include Varanasi will depend on what the other stops on your itinerary are and how much "out of the way" it is. For us, it was in the vicinity of Bodhgaya, which we were going to visit regardless. Whatever you choose, there will be plenty to drop. Even within the geographic range of our itinerary, we dropped close to a dozen other places.
zebec, I understand how the immigrant communities in the West are not the same as the homeland. There are some aspects of it, but it is also infused and integrated with the host country's cultures, creating a new hybrid culture.
Photos from Agra Fort
Somehow the photos I uploaded from Agra Fort did not post. Here it is.
ms_go, whether or not it makes sense to include Varanasi will depend on what the other stops on your itinerary are and how much "out of the way" it is. For us, it was in the vicinity of Bodhgaya, which we were going to visit regardless. Whatever you choose, there will be plenty to drop. Even within the geographic range of our itinerary, we dropped close to a dozen other places.
zebec, I understand how the immigrant communities in the West are not the same as the homeland. There are some aspects of it, but it is also infused and integrated with the host country's cultures, creating a new hybrid culture.
Photos from Agra Fort
Somehow the photos I uploaded from Agra Fort did not post. Here it is.
Nov 28th, 2024, 10:50 AM
#36
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shelemm, I don't have a basis for comparison as this was the only time I've seen the Taj but I do agree that the smog does not diminish the view. In fact, one of my favorite photos of the Golden Gate Bridge that I have hanging up at home is with fog obscuring some of the top. It gives it a softer, and as you said, dreamier, quality.
Fatehpur Sikri and Abhaneri Village
After an all-too-short stay, we reluctantly departed the beautiful Oberoi Amarvilas bound for Rajasthan and the next stop on our itinerary, Jaipur. On the way, we visited Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar's capital city. The political center of Akbar's India was stately, yet grand. Laid out in a series of interconnecting courtyards, we entered the first courtyard housing nothing other than the Hall of Public Audiences. From there we stepped into the second courtyard, known as the Pachisi Courtyard. Immediately in front of us was the beautiful Hall of Private Audiences but once we looked around the corner to the left, the view of the vast plaza punctured by multiple buildings including the cannot-miss Panch Mahal came into view - boy, did Akbar achieve his wow factor. We first explored the Hall of Private Audiences and then moved on to the Treasury, a pavilion built for Akbar's Turkish wife, an ornamental pool, and the Panch Mahal itself, at times on our own and at times with one of the small tour groups from France that we exchanged pleasantries with and started chatting. We moved on to a small third courtyard followed by the courtyard that surrounds the Palace of Jodh Bai. After wandering around here we exiting the complex and made our way to the Friday Mosque, from where we visited a shrine, a memorial, and the large place of worship. We spent about two hours at the site.
Tourists are unable to arrive at Fatehpur Sikri independent. Instead we had to take a bus or golf cart from the parking lot to the site entrance and back; as this is India, it meant another opportunity to harass tourists, sometime we've been trying to avoid as much as possible.
Leaving Fatehpur Sikri, we made a rest stop about one hour into the journey. Even though we didn't need it, it allowed time for our driver to take his lunch and just step away from the wheel in general. We then requested our driver stop in Abhaneri village so that we could see the Chand Baori Stepwell. It was constructed in the 8th or 9th century by King Chandra, a local Hindu ruler. At 100 feet deep, it is one of the deepest of its kind in India, as well as one of the largest. A total of 13 stories of steps zigzag its way to the bottom of the well, creating an incredibly beautiful geometric pattern out of what would otherwise be just another piece of utility infrastructure. We walked around the stepwell and took multiple photographs.
Next to the stepwell is Hershat Mata Temple, a Hindu house of worship built by King Chandra around the same time as the stepwell. The doubled-domed temple houses a statue of Shiva and intricate carved Hindu figures and designs all around its facade.
From there it was another two hours to Jaipur. Our home in Jaipur is the Raj Palace, located close to the old city. The home of the former maharaja of Jaipur built to oversee the construction of his new city more than 300 years ago, the Raj Palace is now covered into a heritage hotel. It's like we're staying in a museum.
Hall of Private Audiences, Fatehpur Sikri
Ornamentation inside Hall of Private Audiences, Fatehpur Sikri
Treasury, Fatehpur Sikri
Ornamental Pool, Fatehpur Sikri
Panch Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri
Palace of Jodh Bai, Fatehpur Sikri
Palace of Jodh Bai, Fatehpur Sikri
Friday Mosque Entrance, Fatehpur Sikri
Inside Friday Mosque, Fatehpur Sikri
Chand Baori Stepwell
Chand Baori Stepwell
Chand Baori Stepwell
Chand Baori Stepwell
Hershat Mata Temple
Detail on Perimeter Wall Surrounding Hershat Mata Temple
Fatehpur Sikri and Abhaneri Village
After an all-too-short stay, we reluctantly departed the beautiful Oberoi Amarvilas bound for Rajasthan and the next stop on our itinerary, Jaipur. On the way, we visited Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar's capital city. The political center of Akbar's India was stately, yet grand. Laid out in a series of interconnecting courtyards, we entered the first courtyard housing nothing other than the Hall of Public Audiences. From there we stepped into the second courtyard, known as the Pachisi Courtyard. Immediately in front of us was the beautiful Hall of Private Audiences but once we looked around the corner to the left, the view of the vast plaza punctured by multiple buildings including the cannot-miss Panch Mahal came into view - boy, did Akbar achieve his wow factor. We first explored the Hall of Private Audiences and then moved on to the Treasury, a pavilion built for Akbar's Turkish wife, an ornamental pool, and the Panch Mahal itself, at times on our own and at times with one of the small tour groups from France that we exchanged pleasantries with and started chatting. We moved on to a small third courtyard followed by the courtyard that surrounds the Palace of Jodh Bai. After wandering around here we exiting the complex and made our way to the Friday Mosque, from where we visited a shrine, a memorial, and the large place of worship. We spent about two hours at the site.
Tourists are unable to arrive at Fatehpur Sikri independent. Instead we had to take a bus or golf cart from the parking lot to the site entrance and back; as this is India, it meant another opportunity to harass tourists, sometime we've been trying to avoid as much as possible.
Leaving Fatehpur Sikri, we made a rest stop about one hour into the journey. Even though we didn't need it, it allowed time for our driver to take his lunch and just step away from the wheel in general. We then requested our driver stop in Abhaneri village so that we could see the Chand Baori Stepwell. It was constructed in the 8th or 9th century by King Chandra, a local Hindu ruler. At 100 feet deep, it is one of the deepest of its kind in India, as well as one of the largest. A total of 13 stories of steps zigzag its way to the bottom of the well, creating an incredibly beautiful geometric pattern out of what would otherwise be just another piece of utility infrastructure. We walked around the stepwell and took multiple photographs.
Next to the stepwell is Hershat Mata Temple, a Hindu house of worship built by King Chandra around the same time as the stepwell. The doubled-domed temple houses a statue of Shiva and intricate carved Hindu figures and designs all around its facade.
From there it was another two hours to Jaipur. Our home in Jaipur is the Raj Palace, located close to the old city. The home of the former maharaja of Jaipur built to oversee the construction of his new city more than 300 years ago, the Raj Palace is now covered into a heritage hotel. It's like we're staying in a museum.
Hall of Private Audiences, Fatehpur Sikri
Ornamentation inside Hall of Private Audiences, Fatehpur Sikri
Treasury, Fatehpur Sikri
Ornamental Pool, Fatehpur Sikri
Panch Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri
Palace of Jodh Bai, Fatehpur Sikri
Palace of Jodh Bai, Fatehpur Sikri
Friday Mosque Entrance, Fatehpur Sikri
Inside Friday Mosque, Fatehpur Sikri
Chand Baori Stepwell
Chand Baori Stepwell
Chand Baori Stepwell
Chand Baori Stepwell
Hershat Mata Temple
Detail on Perimeter Wall Surrounding Hershat Mata Temple
Nov 29th, 2024, 08:14 AM
#37
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The Pink City
We awoke to our first smogless blue sky day of our trip - perfect for pounding the city pavement. We're in the city of Jaipur, the capital of the State of Rajasthan, the land of the famous maharajas. Jaipur is nicknamed the Pink City for the color of its buildings.
Beginning at the New Gate, we used a suggested walking tour in the Lonely Planet's guide to India as the foundation for our explorations around Jaipur. As we began at 9:00 AM, much of the city, especially the shopkeepers and shoppers, have yet come to life. We wandered along Bapu Bazaar, a covered shopping arcade known for shops selling fabrics and shoes, and Johari Bazaar, selling the same as well as jewelry. We popped our heads into the one or two shops that were opened and made some early morning purchases. We also browsed LMB for Rajasthani sweets and purchased some to enjoy with coffee. Walking tours are so much fun.
Our first blockbuster attraction of the day was the Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of the Winds. We admired it from the sidewalk opposite the palace, took some photographs, and then toured the five-story complex. Hawa Mahal was a delight to explore, with its nooks and crannies, beautiful stained glass windows, windows looking onto the street action below, and fine ornamentation on its facade. We climbed to the rooftop for spectacular views of nearby landmarks such as Jantar Mantar and the City Palace, as well as forts occupying commanding positions on strategic hilltops around the city. Hawa Mahal was hands down our favorite stop of the day and possibly of this trip thus far.
We took our energies to our next attraction not too far away, Jantar Mantar, an 18th century astronomical observatory. The outdoor park is scattered with sundials, astrolabes, and other sky-searching and measuring instruments.
Next door to the observatory is the City Palace, home of the maharaja of Jaipur to this day. We visited the palace including the courtyard with its four ornate doors (the one with five peacocks is the most famous), several gorgeous pavilions, and museums.
We surveyed the city from a minaret along Tripolia Bazaar. We then continued our walking tour along the various shopping arcades and alleyways, and viewed a couple more ornamental gates circling the old city. We ended our walking tour at the Albert Hall Museum just outside of the old city walls; the museum is more building than exhibits but this was fine with us as we weren't looking for something extensive.
We wrapped up our way at a Starbucks near the Rambagh area of town. At different points along the trip, we just had a craving for our Seattle favorite, not just for its beverages but we always find an unique pastry or sweet to sample that is unavailable back home in the States. For dinner, we stayed in the Rambagh area. Bar Palladio is an Italian joint serving several of our favorites. What a spectacular day it's been.
New Gate
Sanganeri Gate
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Jantar Mantar
Jantar Mantar
Jantar Mantar
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
Ajmer Gate
Albert Hall Museum
We awoke to our first smogless blue sky day of our trip - perfect for pounding the city pavement. We're in the city of Jaipur, the capital of the State of Rajasthan, the land of the famous maharajas. Jaipur is nicknamed the Pink City for the color of its buildings.
Beginning at the New Gate, we used a suggested walking tour in the Lonely Planet's guide to India as the foundation for our explorations around Jaipur. As we began at 9:00 AM, much of the city, especially the shopkeepers and shoppers, have yet come to life. We wandered along Bapu Bazaar, a covered shopping arcade known for shops selling fabrics and shoes, and Johari Bazaar, selling the same as well as jewelry. We popped our heads into the one or two shops that were opened and made some early morning purchases. We also browsed LMB for Rajasthani sweets and purchased some to enjoy with coffee. Walking tours are so much fun.
Our first blockbuster attraction of the day was the Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of the Winds. We admired it from the sidewalk opposite the palace, took some photographs, and then toured the five-story complex. Hawa Mahal was a delight to explore, with its nooks and crannies, beautiful stained glass windows, windows looking onto the street action below, and fine ornamentation on its facade. We climbed to the rooftop for spectacular views of nearby landmarks such as Jantar Mantar and the City Palace, as well as forts occupying commanding positions on strategic hilltops around the city. Hawa Mahal was hands down our favorite stop of the day and possibly of this trip thus far.
We took our energies to our next attraction not too far away, Jantar Mantar, an 18th century astronomical observatory. The outdoor park is scattered with sundials, astrolabes, and other sky-searching and measuring instruments.
Next door to the observatory is the City Palace, home of the maharaja of Jaipur to this day. We visited the palace including the courtyard with its four ornate doors (the one with five peacocks is the most famous), several gorgeous pavilions, and museums.
We surveyed the city from a minaret along Tripolia Bazaar. We then continued our walking tour along the various shopping arcades and alleyways, and viewed a couple more ornamental gates circling the old city. We ended our walking tour at the Albert Hall Museum just outside of the old city walls; the museum is more building than exhibits but this was fine with us as we weren't looking for something extensive.
We wrapped up our way at a Starbucks near the Rambagh area of town. At different points along the trip, we just had a craving for our Seattle favorite, not just for its beverages but we always find an unique pastry or sweet to sample that is unavailable back home in the States. For dinner, we stayed in the Rambagh area. Bar Palladio is an Italian joint serving several of our favorites. What a spectacular day it's been.
New Gate
Sanganeri Gate
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal
Jantar Mantar
Jantar Mantar
Jantar Mantar
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
City Palace
Ajmer Gate
Albert Hall Museum
Nov 30th, 2024, 09:23 AM
#38
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Forts and Palaces
Today on our agenda are some of the many forts and palaces that surround the City of Jaipur, chief among which is Amber Fort. The cream-colored palace set on the hills to the north of the city was our first stop of the day. Our driver took us to the base of the fort, from where we made our way up on foot. Other options included jeep and elephant. The ascent, on a series of staircases, took less than ten minutes. Entering the Sun Gate, we came into a vast courtyard, with most of the complex to our left. We climbed the steps to the fortress itself, visited the Hall for Public Audiences, and explored Man Singh Palace itself. Most of the palace itself is empty today, but some paintings and decorations survive. The most beautiful part of the palace is one of the interior courtyards with landscaped gardens and a gem-and-mirror studded pavilion overlooking it. It took us about two hours to explore the fort including time for coffee in one of the open spaces in the fort.
From the fort we visited a nearby stepwell. While smaller than Chand Baori, it was still nice to see. Across the street from the stepwell is a small Hindu temple with some fine stone carvings.
Nahargarh Fort was next. From Amber, we wound our way through the hills, snaking up the side of the mountain until we reached the fort. Nahargarh is spread out with a central palace in the middle and lots of open space all around it. We walked along the fortified walls, enjoying wonderful views of Jaipur from a couple of vantage points, before touring the palace itself. The highlights of the palace were the frescos, still in good condition, and the rooftop. Wandering about the top of the palace, the adorning ornamentation reminded us of the rooftop at Casa Mila in Barcelona.
From Nahargarh it was on to nearby Jaigarh Fort. Also situating in the hills above Jaipur and Amber, Jaigarh boasted jaw-dropping views of Amber Fort and the surrounding countryside. Between the two, I preferred the views at Jaigarh. Known as the "victory fort" for battles during the time of the maharajas, Jaigarh hosts a cannon foundry and exhibits cannons and other weapons from a prior area.
From Jaigarh, we wound our way back down the hills to the city. We stopped at Kanak Vrindavan Gardens for an afternoon stroll. While small, we very much cherished our time at the gardens. Surrounded by walls on all sides, all the noise and chaos of the outside was drowned out by the pleasant burble of the water fountains throughout the gardens. The well-manicured lawns were very relaxing to sit on. We spent about an hour just sitting there and drinking in the very pretty surroundings.
We ended our day with a brief photo stop lakeside for a few snaps of a palace on the water, followed by tea and cookies at our hotel.
Dinner tonight was at Swinton House, not too far from Albert Hall Museum. The restaurant is both comfortable and upscale, and serves Indian classics, sushi, and other Asian favorites. We ate very well here.
Amber Fort
Amber Fort
Sun Gate, Amber Fort
Staircase to Palace, Amber Fort
Palace Entrance, Amber Fort
Inner Courtyard, Amber Fort
Tower, Nahargarh Fort
Fortifications, Nahargarh Fort
Fresco, Nahargarh Fort
Rooftops, Nahargarh Fort
View of Amber Fort from Jaigarh Fort
Kanak Vrindavan Gardens
Water Palace
Today on our agenda are some of the many forts and palaces that surround the City of Jaipur, chief among which is Amber Fort. The cream-colored palace set on the hills to the north of the city was our first stop of the day. Our driver took us to the base of the fort, from where we made our way up on foot. Other options included jeep and elephant. The ascent, on a series of staircases, took less than ten minutes. Entering the Sun Gate, we came into a vast courtyard, with most of the complex to our left. We climbed the steps to the fortress itself, visited the Hall for Public Audiences, and explored Man Singh Palace itself. Most of the palace itself is empty today, but some paintings and decorations survive. The most beautiful part of the palace is one of the interior courtyards with landscaped gardens and a gem-and-mirror studded pavilion overlooking it. It took us about two hours to explore the fort including time for coffee in one of the open spaces in the fort.
From the fort we visited a nearby stepwell. While smaller than Chand Baori, it was still nice to see. Across the street from the stepwell is a small Hindu temple with some fine stone carvings.
Nahargarh Fort was next. From Amber, we wound our way through the hills, snaking up the side of the mountain until we reached the fort. Nahargarh is spread out with a central palace in the middle and lots of open space all around it. We walked along the fortified walls, enjoying wonderful views of Jaipur from a couple of vantage points, before touring the palace itself. The highlights of the palace were the frescos, still in good condition, and the rooftop. Wandering about the top of the palace, the adorning ornamentation reminded us of the rooftop at Casa Mila in Barcelona.
From Nahargarh it was on to nearby Jaigarh Fort. Also situating in the hills above Jaipur and Amber, Jaigarh boasted jaw-dropping views of Amber Fort and the surrounding countryside. Between the two, I preferred the views at Jaigarh. Known as the "victory fort" for battles during the time of the maharajas, Jaigarh hosts a cannon foundry and exhibits cannons and other weapons from a prior area.
From Jaigarh, we wound our way back down the hills to the city. We stopped at Kanak Vrindavan Gardens for an afternoon stroll. While small, we very much cherished our time at the gardens. Surrounded by walls on all sides, all the noise and chaos of the outside was drowned out by the pleasant burble of the water fountains throughout the gardens. The well-manicured lawns were very relaxing to sit on. We spent about an hour just sitting there and drinking in the very pretty surroundings.
We ended our day with a brief photo stop lakeside for a few snaps of a palace on the water, followed by tea and cookies at our hotel.
Dinner tonight was at Swinton House, not too far from Albert Hall Museum. The restaurant is both comfortable and upscale, and serves Indian classics, sushi, and other Asian favorites. We ate very well here.
Amber Fort
Amber Fort
Sun Gate, Amber Fort
Staircase to Palace, Amber Fort
Palace Entrance, Amber Fort
Inner Courtyard, Amber Fort
Tower, Nahargarh Fort
Fortifications, Nahargarh Fort
Fresco, Nahargarh Fort
Rooftops, Nahargarh Fort
View of Amber Fort from Jaigarh Fort
Kanak Vrindavan Gardens
Water Palace
Dec 1st, 2024, 09:40 AM
#40
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patandhank, thank you for commenting. Always encouraging to know that there's still interest.
More Jaipur
We began our final day in Jaipur with an early morning hot air balloon ride in the hills north of the city. For about an hour, we glide through the air enjoying the beautiful views of mountains, hills, fields, small villages, and animals. We took in the sunrise from the comfort of our basket. It was a great way to experience some more of this part of the country.
We returned to our hotel for breakfast and a change of clothes before venturing out for more sightseeing. We visited Galtaji, a temple complex built into the hillside at the side of a holy sprint. Dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, Galtaji was humming with Hindu pilgrims this morning. Worshippers prayed and bathed in the spring. Non-worshippers like us surveyed the beautiful buildings and frescoes.
Nearby was Sisodia Rani ka Bagh, a small home and gardens fit for a maharani or queen. The park-like gardens are beautifully landscaped with frangipani, palm trees, and cypresses. We happily passed some of our time here before continuing on to the far south of the city.
Jaipur is ringed by city walls and gates. In addition to gates scattered throughout the old city such as the Ajmer Gate, there are gates in the new city as well, although of more recent construction. One of the most beautiful is supposed to be Patrika Gate near the airport. We traveled by car to the gate for a look-around. Built in 2016, Patrika Gate incorporates Rajasthani design and ornamentation such as the scallopped archways found in all of the city' palaces, images of important landmarks throughout the state, as well as historical and Hindu figures. Nearby was Toran Dwar, also a new piece of art.
From there we travelled back to the old city, crossing it from south to north. We arrived at the Royal Gaitor complex, home to monuments and memorials to the city's maharajas and their families. On site are several large domed canopies dedicated to specific maharajas as well as well as smaller cupolas, all of it set in a garden-like setting.
We wrapped up our visit to Jaipur back at Hawa Mahal, our favorite building from our 15 days in India. There we enjoyed some cold beverage and light afternoon snacks at Tattoo Cafe overlooking the landmark. We browsed some of the nearby shops and made a few last-minute purchases.
Dinner tonight was at Johri, located down a small alleyway a short walk from Hawa Mahal. Serving only vegetarian dishes, Johri was named one of the top restaurants in India this year. While a couple of us typically prefer meat, we didn't miss it given how delicious everything was. We walked off our full bellies with a leisurely stroll back to our hotel, passing by Hawa Mahal one final time.
Hot Air Balloon
Hills North of Jaipur
Hills North of Jaipur
Hills North of Jaipur
Sunrise Over Northern Jaipur
Galtaji
Spring at Galtaji
Sisodia Rani ka Bagh
Patrika Gate
Patrika Gate
Toran Dwar
Royal Gaitor Memorial
Hawa Mahal
More Jaipur
We began our final day in Jaipur with an early morning hot air balloon ride in the hills north of the city. For about an hour, we glide through the air enjoying the beautiful views of mountains, hills, fields, small villages, and animals. We took in the sunrise from the comfort of our basket. It was a great way to experience some more of this part of the country.
We returned to our hotel for breakfast and a change of clothes before venturing out for more sightseeing. We visited Galtaji, a temple complex built into the hillside at the side of a holy sprint. Dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, Galtaji was humming with Hindu pilgrims this morning. Worshippers prayed and bathed in the spring. Non-worshippers like us surveyed the beautiful buildings and frescoes.
Nearby was Sisodia Rani ka Bagh, a small home and gardens fit for a maharani or queen. The park-like gardens are beautifully landscaped with frangipani, palm trees, and cypresses. We happily passed some of our time here before continuing on to the far south of the city.
Jaipur is ringed by city walls and gates. In addition to gates scattered throughout the old city such as the Ajmer Gate, there are gates in the new city as well, although of more recent construction. One of the most beautiful is supposed to be Patrika Gate near the airport. We traveled by car to the gate for a look-around. Built in 2016, Patrika Gate incorporates Rajasthani design and ornamentation such as the scallopped archways found in all of the city' palaces, images of important landmarks throughout the state, as well as historical and Hindu figures. Nearby was Toran Dwar, also a new piece of art.
From there we travelled back to the old city, crossing it from south to north. We arrived at the Royal Gaitor complex, home to monuments and memorials to the city's maharajas and their families. On site are several large domed canopies dedicated to specific maharajas as well as well as smaller cupolas, all of it set in a garden-like setting.
We wrapped up our visit to Jaipur back at Hawa Mahal, our favorite building from our 15 days in India. There we enjoyed some cold beverage and light afternoon snacks at Tattoo Cafe overlooking the landmark. We browsed some of the nearby shops and made a few last-minute purchases.
Dinner tonight was at Johri, located down a small alleyway a short walk from Hawa Mahal. Serving only vegetarian dishes, Johri was named one of the top restaurants in India this year. While a couple of us typically prefer meat, we didn't miss it given how delicious everything was. We walked off our full bellies with a leisurely stroll back to our hotel, passing by Hawa Mahal one final time.
Hot Air Balloon
Hills North of Jaipur
Hills North of Jaipur
Hills North of Jaipur
Sunrise Over Northern Jaipur
Galtaji
Spring at Galtaji
Sisodia Rani ka Bagh
Patrika Gate
Patrika Gate
Toran Dwar
Royal Gaitor Memorial
Hawa Mahal
