I decided to see for myself why Marseille gets a bad rep amongst the French.
“Ah, Marseille, c’est mauvais fréquentée” is a common comment amongst French people, which means, “Oh, Marseille, it’s a bit dodgy.” France’s second-biggest city doesn’t have the best reputation. Parisians, in particular, are seemingly trained from birth to hate their southern cousin due to centuries of Paris rule that Marseille often rebelled against. The city became part of France later than other regions and has maintained an outsider stance ever since. More recently, decades of football rivalry have helped sustain the separation.
I recently visited Marseille to check out the accuracy of its national reputation.
Spoiler alert: it does not deserve so much hate. No other French city has all the urban benefits, access to nature, and delicious food for as affordable a price as Marseille.
Why the “Dodgy” Reputation?
In other French cities, sunlight barely penetrates the densely placed buildings. Marseille, though, is special. As I wandered toward the harbor on my first day, I admired how much the sun shone through the buildings and made the sea sparkle in the distance. I felt sure it would eventually dry up like a mirage. Instead, I suddenly arrived at the ocean’s doorstep and soaked in the salty sea air. I recommend that anyone who visits the city start their trip the same way. On that initial walk, I saw Marseille’s diversity on every corner and suspected that was likely at the heart of its less-than-positive reputation. Like so many issues in the world, racism is at the heart.
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Marseille is a main port in Europe and an entry point for immigrants. The city is also the location of the centralized administrative center for asylum seekers. Most arrive from Africa, the Middle East, and the Balkans, and many are unaccompanied children, according to Human Rights Watch. Thus, you can blame old-fashioned racism for why so many look down on the city. Of course, no one will ever say that outright. You’ll receive a vaguer answer like “the people will steal from you” or “it’s unsafe” without many specifics as to why. So much so that last year, the city was chosen as the location of a speech by the Pope encouraging the French and others to welcome migrants.
Trust me, though. The city’s diversity is actually one of its strengths, and it means a wonderful offering of food, culture, and sites. As for safety, if you take the same precautions you would in any major city such as New York, Tokyo, and, yes, Paris, you’ll be fine. You might even prefer Marseille to all of the above once you read all about what to do there below.
Where to Eat and Drink in Marseille
Les Grandes Halles du Vieux Port, or the covered markets of Old Port, are standard around Europe. In Marseille, though, it is specifically THE place for affordable yet fresh and delicious snacks, dinners, and seafood. A friend and I split a platter of oysters, mussels, fish, shrimp, and sea urchins for just 20 euros total! There’s also amazing pizza, Lebanese food, and a bar.
It’s also perfect for a low-key night out. On the weekend, you’ll see plenty of young people seated outside with drinks and snacks well into the evening.
If you’re less in the mood for a more formal meal, there are some great restaurants in the vicinity that won’t break the bank. I recommend Restaurant Maison Méditerranée Marseille for fun tapas and cocktails and Fuxia for Italian.
I found everything (particularly food) much cheaper in Marseille than in other parts of the country. If you go further east towards Nice and Cannes, prices match New York and San Francisco. Paris is a bit better, but no major city has all the urban benefits, access to nature, and great food for as great a price as Marseille.
Throughout the day, you’ll want to visit one of the coffee shops in Marseille. Now, France is not known for great coffee. However, Marseille is large enough that a decent espresso can be found! My recs (as a born and raised Seattle coffee snob) are Éclectique Marseille, La Brûlerie MOKA, and Cafe la Muse.
Must-See Sights in the City
There’s certainly no shortage of things to do in the south’s biggest city. Further down the harbor from the main Old Port area and a bit inland is the Abbaye Saint-Victor, which is worth a look if you appreciate old cathedrals. However, the most interesting aspect lies underground. It costs 3 euros to enter the church’s catacombs. I did flinch a bit when the door clanged shut behind us, but as I descended the stairs into what felt like the underworld, amazement overcame any hesitancy. The small area is chock-full of ancient graves, well-preserved frescoes, and occasionally, as was the case on the day I visited, school art installations.
Next up, wander over to the Basilica Notre-Dame de la Garde. It’s one of two iconic striped à l’Italien style in the city, quite unusual in France. The climb up the hill could count as a hike, but the reward is a panoramic view of the ocean. Inside, ornate gold and epic statues could have you trapped in admiration for half a day. Entrance to the interior and terraces is free.
Finally, the last place of interest on this side of the harbor is the Palais du Phara. The mid-1800s palace built for Napoleon III is now mainly used for conferences. The exterior is stunning, but the highlight is the park and grounds that surround it. An ideal urban oasis for anyone looking for a picnic or journaling spot with epic views of Marseille.
Across the harbor lies the magnificent Cathédral La Major, the other striped cathedral full of historic murals and mosaics. La Major is one of the most impressive religious sites in the city and is so popular that it’s recommended that you come at 10 a.m. for fewer crowds.
The nearby “le Panier” neighborhood is Marseille’s answer to Montmartre in Paris, but it has way fewer tourists. The colorful neighborhood is full of brightly colored buildings, murals, artisan shops, artist displays, and fun bars and cafes.
Easy Day Trips
Beyond the city limits, Marseille also serves as a fantastic base to explore neighboring towns such as upscale Aix-en-Provence, historic Nîmes, or relaxing Cassis. The last town is a resort town, just 25 minutes by train from Marseille St-Charles station, and serves as a gateway to the Calanques National Park. From the town center, you can walk to the nearest Calanque Port Miou (water grotto) in just 30 minutes. A bit further is Calanque du Port Pin, about an hour from Cassis.
I visited in February, which, even in the South of France, doesn’t guarantee nice weather. My friend and I arrived in Cassis under bright, sunny skies, but dark, nearly black clouds hovered in the distance. We followed the sea from town through residential roads that eventually snaked into the park. Below, we gazed upon water that blended from dark Mediterranean azul to electric blue to seafoam green in the narrow sailboat-lined inlet. We opted to turn around at Port Miou before the weather turned from moody to raging with rain and thunder.
Friendly Locals
Finally, one major reason Marseille should top everyone’s list of places to visit in France is the people. I received a hug from a barista after he learned that I lived in his hometown. I had similarly warm, if less enthusiastic (no hug) encounters with most people I encountered. Even in the South, where people tend to be friendlier than, say, Paris, the French are not known for spontaneous hugs and friendship with people they just met. Yet, that day, a moment passed between strangers that illustrated Marseille’s uniqueness in France.
My oldest son and his family live in Marseille. I've visited several times and I love it! ❤️
Thank you for sharing. It's nice to hear something positive regarding the city.